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Routes in East Slate Rock

Amputation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Slate Than Never T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blockader's Glory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clawhammer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Slate T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dibs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Eye Candy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Term Pachyderm T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Handrail, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Knobby Knubs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lanier Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Learning Curve T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Crackalacky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slate Night Booty T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slater Alligator S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slither and Flap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sly Mackaye T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slybrows (Nick's Groove) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 577 total · 15/month
Shared By: nbrown on Sep 2, 2015
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This is one of the finest crimpy slab routes in Pisgah! It does seep, but is typically dry in the afternoon around the time the wall enters the shade.

Start by climbing a somewhat dirty, but short and easy right facing corner to the roof. Move right a few feet and get pro under roof -- be sure to sling it long. From here, make cruxy moves up and left to a jug and a bolt. Step up and left to a small ledge at a left facing/arching corner.

From here step back right (a different route moves left) and climb excellent small crimps past a few more bolts.

At the 4th bolt, move back left and up to a ledge (the "Hook Up" finishes up the righthand groove). Climb the the crimpy left side of the wide streak/groove (crux) to a point at which it's possible to step right into the groove. A couple optional small tcu placements protect the section up to the anchor.

Note: The route can barely be rappelled with one 60 m rope but watch your ends! A 70 meter rope works best on all of the routes in this area.

Location

On the right side of Upper Wall area. Look for the brown reddish colored streak -- see picture.

Protection

7 bolts and gear up to a # 1 camelot.

Photos

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