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Rodent's Party
5.10c,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 66
votes
FA: Rudaw Janowic
W Virginia
> New River Gorge
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 3. Second Buttress
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Description
Start inside the tunnel formed by the massive leaning block and climb out the right side of the tunnel to the face above. After clipping a few bolts in the first 30 feet or so, you will have the option to step off the main wall onto the top of the massive leaning block for a no-hands rest (or a nap, or a picnic) at mid height. You can clip another bolt from here too. To finish, follow the bolt line up on good holds through the overhangs above.
Location
Far right side of the tunnel, 15 feet left of the start for Bullocks (5.9).
Protection
8 bolts, with a standard sport anchor.
[Hide Photo] Hanging out on the large leaning block that forms the cave.
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