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Routes in First Waterfall Area

Bats-n-Bees T A2
Bennet A Lybarger Route T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Common Wealth T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fiddler, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Lock and Key T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quehoe's Tower T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rats-n-Bats T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rats-n-Bees T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Seams Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3+ R
Waterfall Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waterfall Right TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Sal Mamusia,Paul Van Betten,Richard Harrison,Watrman Bob Conz,Shelby Sheltonism Shelton,Jay Smith,Ironman Bob Finley,Michelle Locatelli,Don Borroughs,
Page Views: 265 total · 9/month
Shared By: DesertDan on Aug 31, 2015
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Start on the low angle shoulder, angle up and right under a small roof to a small stance/ledge under a bolt. Go straight up past the bolt to a two-bolt anchor. A top rope can be set up on this by climbing the flowstone to the low-angle ramp on the left that leads straight to the anchors.


The overhanging face on the left just before the waterfall.


One bolt, cams up to 3" or TR


Bemidji, MN
DesertDan   Bemidji, MN
Sal discovered this line on Sunday morning of the 3rd Classic after a late night of debauchery. He was up walking around at the crack of dawn when he found a water bottle that had been left out all night. Being a dry year, it was now filled with multiple drowned field mice and hundreds of bees. After a good laugh where Sal pretended to drink from the bottle with his best hillbilly imitation, he wandered up the canyon and got the idea that he could climb the overhang just left of the waterfall. He grabbed his drill, soloed up the easy ramp above the overhang, and placed the top rope anchors. There were a bunch of very talented climbers at Keyhole that year, and putting up this climb soon became the main entertainment. Eliminations were started, with each climber getting one shot to make it or go to the back of the line. Being a Keyhole Classic, people came and went all day and tons of people tried this climb. Most of us were 5.10 climbers and fell off before the only rest, but the hard men continued pushing further, one or two holds at a time. Eventually someone, I don't remember who, made it and called it 5.12b. This was a most of the day project and a lot of attention was given to this small climb and holds were getting named as progress was made. One of these was discovered by Don Borroughs, a small left-handed side pull at the crux, now called The Donny Hold, which dropped the rating to low 11. This was a top rope for the first couple years until we led it around '93. Sep 3, 2015