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After All This Time
5.7,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 121
votes
FA: Lee Hansche and Torie Kidd
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Balcony
Description
This amazingly exposed route has been on my mind for years. I could see through the thick blanket of lichen and knew there was something special to be climbed. I would look at it after topping out Black Mamba, or walk over from Pulse to gaze at it. One day I suggested to My friend that we get adventurous and we went after it in ground up trad style. I love wading through filth wondering what is around the next corner and where I might get my next piece of pro... I also know that most people don't so we went back scrubbed the heck out of it removed suspect rocks and gave you some solid bolts. The result is honestly one of my favorite moderate climbs at Rumney.
The first step is the hardest, not physically but mentally. Step across the 100ft void to a very stable stance and clip a bolt. Do about 10 feet of 5.7 climbing until the difficulty eases up a little and wind your way to the left and finally traverse back to the right to gain the anchor.
Be respectful of climbers coming up Black Mamba, I suggest clipping that anchor for the step across the void to start the route but Anchor yourself to the tree and maybe unclip that first bolt if someone needs to use that anchor and your climber is well established on this climb.
Location
The farthest left route. Look for the scary first step, can't miss it.
Protection
Anchor to the tree near the base of the route. . Clip the anchor to black mamba for the first move. 6 bolts to Anchors from there. 5th bolt likes a longer draw to avoid drag but it's not 100% necessary.. when your face is at the 6th bolt travers right to the anchor on good foot holds. The anchor had to be over there so you could lower back to safety instead of off in to the nothingness below. Pigtail lower-offs make it easy.
[Hide Photo] Me on my first bolted ascent of the climb. I really wish we got pics of the Ground up FA... so much lichen, a brush clenched in my teeth for cleaning key holds and a slightly less relaxed look on m…
[Hide Photo] Sydney owning the exposure as she follows the route.
[Hide Photo] Torie on the first bolted ascent of the route. If it feels slippery its probably from all the elbow grease she left on it when she was scrubbing it clean ;)
[Hide Photo] My dad demonstrates the walk of exposure
[Hide Photo] Tyler mid route (careful of a few stinging residents around the crack to the right of him)
[Hide Comment] My twelve year old, Sydney, and I climbed this route and loved it. The initial step out onto the climb was memorable and while a little intimidating, is not actually difficult. I found the first few bolts to be the most thought provoking and really enjoyed heading up the top. The anchors lower right back to where you started - nice! Fun addition
Sep 6, 2015
[Hide Comment] dazzling views await all those who venture to this route. none of the pics quite give it justice the scenery is splendid indeed.
Nov 9, 2015
[Hide Comment] I can't think of a more memorable 5.7 at Rumney. Classic all the way. A must do for any Rumney aficionado no matter how hard you climb.
Jun 17, 2021
[Hide Comment] Thank you Lee Hansche and Torie Kidd for bolting this route (You might not be there today but we were thanking to you both out loud). The first step was indeed intimidating. Such a fun route! Special thanks to one of my climbing partners, Lucas, for showing me the route today.
Apr 9, 2023
[Hide Comment] I’m so glad you enjoyed it Seda! This one is certainly one of a kind. It’s great knowing that folks like yourself enjoy and appreciate a climb that I worked on.
Apr 10, 2023
[Hide Comment] I can’t think of a better 5.7 sport route I’ve climbed, period. Fundamentally fun, entirely epic, and downright desirable. I couldn’t stop smiling
Aug 20, 2023
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