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Routes in Mt. Gilbert

North Couloir (Engram Couloir) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 Steep Snow
South East Slope T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Norman Clyde - September 1928
Page Views: 136 total · 4/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Aug 31, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the Treasure Col couloir then one can go low and do mostly snow, or stay high near or (recommended) along the ridge for more technical difficulty and exposure.

Descent is best straight south by glissading, then scrambling up exposed blocks/rock back to the top of Treasure Col.

Location

A camp site at the lower Treasure Lakes works for this route, and is a fairly mellow hike to a lovely camp spot.

Follow a faint trail south as if going to Upper Treasure Lakes, but stay in the gully, you'll soon reach a lake at 11,321 ft. This is passed on the left, then go up the slope/gully on the right for Treasure Col. Treasure Col is the obvious snow couloir to the right of Mount Johnson.

Protection

Solo - Ice axe and crampons.

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