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Goldshut Arete

5.11c, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 28 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Trojan Bunny Buttress
Warning Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays DetailsDrop down

Description

This has really nice arete and face climbing. The first crux is at the 4th bolt, and a second crux is just before hitting the anchors. There is good rock and fun movement on the face and arete.

Location

This pitch is on the North face of the rock and starts just left of Fire on the Mountain. The first bolt is on the right side of the arete, and then you switch to the left side.

There is a mid-point anchor at 50 or 60 feet or continue to the top via Sonata. A 60m will barely make it down from the top anchor. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Protection

It is fully bolted, although you can extend this into a long pitch by continuing up the upper arete of Sonata. To do this, bring a #0.3 and 0.4 size BD Camalots.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Rolofson
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] There are two ways to get to the anchor. The easier way moves right onto Fire On The Mountain for more moderate terrain & reaches back left to the anchor. For full value & a crux finish, climb the smooth slab directly up the right side of the arete (.11c/d) past the last bolt. I thought the lower crux at the 3rd bolt was .11c. May 11, 2017
Andy Bandos
CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Confirming that straight up at the last bolt is not 11-. This thing is upper 11. Very cool slab moves up high. Aug 27, 2019
Will Butler
Lyons, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Easy to hang the draws on rappel from Sonata. I'd suggest putting a sling on the second to last bolt before the anchors. The crux (for me) was at the last two bolts, which had slightly spicy slab bolting. Jul 12, 2023