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Routes in Superdeath

Superdeath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Until Death Do Us Part T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: K. Lugbill, B. Feiges
Page Views: 115 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 30, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux of this route is cool and worth doing. Most of the rest is less interesting and could use a good brushing. The rock is lichenous and scruffy along its length, and one must be careful about using small edges. Available protection, aside the bolts, is a small nut at the beginning and then green and yellow Aliens at the horizontal break. The green Alien is the best gear but confiscates the best crux hold once placed.

Start on the ground just left of the arete. Go up within arms length of the arete on small crimps and a few good edges. Short climbers will nto be able to reach the best edges from good feet and will find this portion of the climb both hard and for lack of gear considering the requisite insecurity they will feel on the intermediate moves.

Continue up past a bolt, and place a few Aliens in a horizontal, in the middle of the crux sequence. Get out onto and cross the arete to a face on the right side. This can be climbed directly up the arete (harder, perhaps a little dangerous) to reach the single bolt anchor on top, or a few feet further right and all the way up to the ledge and a belay on trad gear as per the F.A.

Walk/scramble off to the West and then back to the base.

Take a brush, and do everyone a favor if you do this route.

Location

This is the route with 2 bolts and a single bolt anchor on the obvious South arete of the crag.

Protection

A few small or medium nuts and a few small Aliens. The top anchor is on nuts and a cam. The single ring anchor up top is not above the finish to the original route.

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