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Routes in Electra Glide
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Bloody Monday T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Catch You Later TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Electra Glide T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 40.0016, -105.4134 |
| FA: | B. Morck, K. Morck, E. Webser, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 861 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 30, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed.
Details
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
Bloody Monday has a somewhat contrived hard start to the upper (better) section. The bottom can be climbed from the right side of the arete upward with a spotter, then the crux can be pulled on either side of the arete, with the right side being what is forced by the position of the bolt, though the left is possible. Once the crux is pulled, the climb goes right on obvious crack systems. The stars on the route are for the upper section. The boulder problem at the bolt is an interesting diversion but not destination-worthy in and of itself.
Location
At the far left arete of Electra Glide crag, there is a single bolt at a bulge on the wall. Work up to this on the arete from the left (moderate) or the right (harder, heads up, 2" cam for protection when you need it) and clip the bolt when you come to the second bulge. The bolt was formerly junk, but newly replaced with 316 SS Climbtech equipment on 9/2/15.
Pull onto the corner and up part this bolt on the right, and continue up and right to the crack of Electra Glide just above the small roof on that climb. This does not finish on Electra Glide, as per the D'Antonio book, but breaks off back left of E.G. and finishes on 5.9 climbing on it's own, a-la the Rossiter guide. Place gear (1.75" +/-), and head back left on 5.9+ moves well above gear in spots to a 2-2.5" cam in an overlapping flake/crack, then continue to two bolts on top with the fixed rap station to belay or descend.
A variation of this also goes free (Haas/Bubb 9/2015) whereas you climb the left side of the arete, clipping the bolt on the right with a 2' sling, get up onto the ledge and then climb directly up the arete on the left without diverting to Electra Glide for any progress (you can place gear there, sure) and head to the top. This is 5.10 PG-13 for several spots that might cause a little pause to think about consequences. We considered additional hardware, but frankly, it would have changed the existing routes.
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