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Routes in Electra Glide

Bloody Monday T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Catch You Later TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electra Glide T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: B. Morck, K. Morck, E. Webser, 1990
Page Views: 103 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 30, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Bloody Monday has a somewhat contrived hard start to the upper (better) section. The bottom can be climbed from the right side of the arete upward with a spotter, then the crux can be pulled on either side of the arete, with the right side being what is forced by the position of the bolt, though the left is possible. Once the crux is pulled, the climb goes right on obvious crack systems. The stars on the route are for the upper section. The boulder problem at the bolt is an interesting diversion but not destination-worthy in and of itself.

Location

At the far left arete of Electra Glide crag, there is a single bolt at a bulge on the wall. Work up to this on the arete from the left (moderate) or the right (harder, heads up, 2" cam for protection when you need it) and clip the bolt when you come to the second bulge. The bolt was formerly junk, but newly replaced with 316 SS Climbtech equipment on 9/2/15.

Pull onto the corner and up part this bolt on the right, and continue up and right to the crack of Electra Glide just above the small roof on that climb. This does not finish on Electra Glide, as per the D'Antonio book, but breaks off back left of E.G. and finishes on 5.9 climbing on it's own, a-la the Rossiter guide. Place gear (1.75" +/-), and head back left on 5.9+ moves well above gear in spots to a 2-2.5" cam in an overlapping flake/crack, then continue to two bolts on top with the fixed rap station to belay or descend.

A variation of this also goes free (Haas/Bubb 9/2015) whereas you climb the left side of the arete, clipping the bolt on the right with a 2' sling, get up onto the ledge and then climb directly up the arete on the left without diverting to Electra Glide for any progress (you can place gear there, sure) and head to the top. This is 5.10 PG-13 for several spots that might cause a little pause to think about consequences. We considered additional hardware, but frankly, it would have changed the existing routes.

Protection

While a single bolt protects the crux, a standard light rack, perhaps with extra in the 2" range is needed for the crack to the top. Bring some long slings.

Photos

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As the description says, the original rusted 3/8" stud bolt with rusted, thin SMC hanger has been replaced. The threads were stripped on the stud and the nut glued, but the whole bolt spun with the nut itself when trying to loosen the nut, which prevented being able to remove the nut as well as the bolt itself and thus preventing reusing the same hole. The new bolt location is a little closer to the arete, which makes it actually a touch easier to clip on the lead. Anyway, thanks to the Boulder Climbing Community for providing the bolt. Please support them if you don't already. Sep 3, 2015

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