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Routes in 80 Foot Wall

Demonstrator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shake Your Bag of Bones T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shake, Peel, and Pour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Son of Demonstrator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Step Son T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: George Smith, Dan Briley
Page Views: 132 total · 4/month
Shared By: DesertDan on Aug 28, 2015
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the middle of the wall, right where a small hidden chimney forms. Three bolts take you to the base of the small arete that comes down from the top. Stay on the slightly overhanging arete and left of the easy ledge for 11a, or go right past the bulge (a #1 camalot can be placed here and keeps the climb to 10b) to the ledge and then step left onto the arete to finish.

Location

Start in the middle of the Demonstrator Ledge bellow a shallow arete/corner that comes halfway down the cliff.

Protection

5 bolts, #1 camolot(optional)

Photos

Michael Dom  
 
This route was falling apart when I climbed it. Don't blow the moves going to the second bolt. I was able to place a yellow MasterCard in the undercling on the right but I doubt that rock will hold under a real fall. Also moving to the third bolt has you balancing through flakes that shattered as I pulled on them. Everything was going well until I climbed above the last bolt on the climb, then the arete holds sheared off in my hands and sent me for a ride. Chossy Jan 2, 2017

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