Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), Grade III|
|FA:||Bob Bates, Ad Carter, John Case & Waldo Holcombe 1949|
|Page Views:||2,985 total · 40/month|
|Shared By:||Jared Spaulding on Aug 26, 2015|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
The following is a vague description of my route. Given the nature of the terrain, many options are possible. There is a big reddish spire on the ridge with a splitter wide crack through it. I aimed for the bottom/right side of it. Starting further right than I did may allow for more quality rock for climbing:
From the saddle climb up and left through 150' of 4th class ledges strewn with loose rock.
Move back right for another 150+ feet through similar terrain (4th/low 5th).
Continue up and right another 170' through easier (4th/3rd class) though looser terrain to bottom of reddish pillar, ending with a bit of 5th class up to ledges on the lower right side of pillar.
The Good Pitch. Climb up low angle chimney in better quality stone and gain a splitter hand and finger crack and follow it to its end. Belay on any number of ledges higher up. (180' 5.6)
Climb up and left over corners and slabs to lower angle terrain. Belay before snowfield. (170' 5.2)
Ascend snowfield to summit. (500-700')
I found no bergschrund to cross in August of 2015.
Descend via the Gooseneck Glacier/Couloir.