Type: Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), Grade III
FA: Bob Bates, Ad Carter, John Case & Waldo Holcombe 1949
Page Views: 2,985 total · 40/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Aug 26, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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The Northeast Ridge of Gannett Peak is an uncrowded (not that Gannett is really ever crowded), moderate, rock/snow/glacier route that sports frequent loose rock, lots of 4th class terrain, a hundred plus feet of splitter crack climbing, a beautiful summit snowfield and a glaciated approach, all of which combine for a quintessential day in the mountains.

The following is a vague description of my route. Given the nature of the terrain, many options are possible. There is a big reddish spire on the ridge with a splitter wide crack through it. I aimed for the bottom/right side of it. Starting further right than I did may allow for more quality rock for climbing:

From the saddle climb up and left through 150' of 4th class ledges strewn with loose rock.

Move back right for another 150+ feet through similar terrain (4th/low 5th).

Continue up and right another 170' through easier (4th/3rd class) though looser terrain to bottom of reddish pillar, ending with a bit of 5th class up to ledges on the lower right side of pillar.

The Good Pitch. Climb up low angle chimney in better quality stone and gain a splitter hand and finger crack and follow it to its end. Belay on any number of ledges higher up. (180' 5.6)

Climb up and left over corners and slabs to lower angle terrain. Belay before snowfield. (170' 5.2)

Ascend snowfield to summit. (500-700')


Gain the ridge from the saddle at the northeast side of Gannett Peak where the Gannett Glacier and the Gooseneck Glacier come together. One can reach this saddle in many ways. I approached from the north and west via the Gannett Glacier. Climbing directly up the Gooseneck on moderate snow (or ice, depending on season) is likely quicker.

I found no bergschrund to cross in August of 2015.

Descend via the Gooseneck Glacier/Couloir.


A single rack of gear proved more than adequate. Depending on conditions (and obviously comfort level) snow protection maybe desired at the top or for the Gooseneck Glacier approach.