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Pulsar 7a

5.11d, Sport, 1100 ft, 10 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: W Britschgi, S. Degelo, R. Furrer 2001
International > Europe > Switzerland > Melchtal > Cheselenflue

Description

Pulsar is a hugely varied and challenging climb which follows lines of weak- ness through the cliff, with some creative traversing in the lower sections to gain access to excellent top pitches. The back to back 7a pitches are great and totally different from one another. Full sun until late afternoon.
Approach: As with other climbs on Cheslenfluh, approach can be either from the top or bottom. From the bottom (at Stöckalp), hike up the SAC trail (marked red and white) until past the main waterfall which splits the main sectors of the cliff. Pulsar is the furthest to the left, so follow the trail until underneath of the large talus field. Scramble gracefully up the scree to the tallest point. Pulsar is 60 m left of Technoparty and Rotpunkt.

P1 5b Locate the start and scramble up and left.

P2 6b Face climbing up, left, then right.

P3 6c Cool undercling at the start to crimps

P4 6a+ Traverse pitch! Go left for 20 m. Stay low, with the bolts at your head, for easiest path.

P5 6a+ Face climbing on chickenheads.

P6 7a Steep yellow limestone on blocks and pockets, classic power en- durance. Exit through a roof.

P7 7a Still overhanging, but on compact grey limestone with crafty crimping, underclinging, and footwork needed.

P8 6c+ Left around a flake to leftward traversing crimpfest.

P9 6b Pick up and through blocky choss to a roof. Large chunks still highly mobile!

P10 6b+ First half is simply the best steep grey limestone you could ask for. Pure joy. Second half all flat edges, still good.

Location

Far left side of Cheselenflue.

Rap the route with double ropes. 50 m ropes will just work.

Protection

Bolts. 4-5 slings very useful for keeping rope drag to a minimum.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Smiles on the 6c+
[Hide Photo] Smiles on the 6c+
Looking down on the first, sporty 7a
[Hide Photo] Looking down on the first, sporty 7a
Long 6a+ traverse
[Hide Photo] Long 6a+ traverse