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Routes in Cheselenflue

Blauer Käfer 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+ S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flaschengeist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kontinuum 6c+ S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Meteorit S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pulsar 7a S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roter Punkt 6c S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Technoparty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trockener Regen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Viadukt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 1100 ft, 10 pitches
FA: W Britschgi, S. Degelo, R. Furrer 2001
Page Views: 173 total · 6/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Aug 26, 2015
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

Pulsar is a hugely varied and challenging climb which follows lines of weak- ness through the cliff, with some creative traversing in the lower sections to gain access to excellent top pitches. The back to back 7a pitches are great and totally different from one another. Full sun until late afternoon.
Approach: As with other climbs on Cheslenfluh, approach can be either from the top or bottom. From the bottom (at Stöckalp), hike up the SAC trail (marked red and white) until past the main waterfall which splits the main sectors of the cliff. Pulsar is the furthest to the left, so follow the trail until underneath of the large talus field. Scramble gracefully up the scree to the tallest point. Pulsar is 60 m left of Technoparty and Rotpunkt.

P1 5b Locate the start and scramble up and left.

P2 6b Face climbing up, left, then right.

P3 6c Cool undercling at the start to crimps

P4 6a+ Traverse pitch! Go left for 20 m. Stay low, with the bolts at your head, for easiest path.

P5 6a+ Face climbing on chickenheads.

P6 7a Steep yellow limestone on blocks and pockets, classic power en- durance. Exit through a roof.

P7 7a Still overhanging, but on compact grey limestone with crafty crimping, underclinging, and footwork needed.

P8 6c+ Left around a flake to leftward traversing crimpfest.

P9 6b Pick up and through blocky choss to a roof. Large chunks still highly mobile!

P10 6b+ First half is simply the best steep grey limestone you could ask for. Pure joy. Second half all flat edges, still good.

Location

Far left side of Cheselenflue.

Rap the route with double ropes. 50 m ropes will just work.

Protection

Bolts. 4-5 slings very useful for keeping rope drag to a minimum.

Photos

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