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Routes in Guard House

Auld Lang Syne T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheech and Choss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eric Couldn't Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jeff Dillon, Ryan Sommers, August 2015
Page Views: 116 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jeff Dillon on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route takes the line of least resistance and most shrubbery on the left side of Guard House Rock.

P1. Climb up easy ground to a large, horizontal crack. Traverse the crack right to gain a ledge. Traverse right on the ledge to gain a thin, left-slanting seam. Climb the seam to a ledge with a steep, left-slanting fist crack. Climb the crack to another ledge and set a belay.

P2. Continue up a left-slanting, wide crack to a ledge. Climb up nice flakes in an obtuse corner to another ledge. Traverse right on the ledge, climb a short face to another ledge, and set a belay.

P3. Climb up easy ground to a large ledge. Continue up a wide crack on the right, east-facing wall to the top.

Descent: scramble down the chimney from the southwest corner of the pinnacle to a small ledge with a large chockstone. Rappel from fixed slings 35m to a rock ledge, and scramble north back to the river. A 70m rope is helpful.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route starts at the far left side of the north face of the Guard House buttress.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack with extras of the larger cams (BD #3 and #4).

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