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Routes in White Dream

Cryin' on the Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Get Up Stand Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Life on a Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R
White Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Dream Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Herbst, Jorge Urioste early 70s
Page Views: 113 total, 4/month
Shared By: DesertDan on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Description

Start from the lowest point of the cliff at the bottom of the wide white streak and climb easy low angle slabs till they end.

P1) Gain the steeper slabs above this staying about a third of the way across the face from the dihedral that marks the left side of the white rock and continue towards the head wall. Easy 5.10 climbing on slick polished granite with protection every 15-20' in horizontal cracks and one-off seams give this pitch a spicy flavor. Find a belay spot below the head wall and the shallow groove/water streak.

P2) Below the water streak, the head wall dips to its lowest point. The only two bolts on the route are found here: one below this dip and the second just onto the head wall. Follow the water streak on the near vertical rock for thirty pro-less feet over the low angle slabs bellow. This is the crux, 5.10, and a fall here would be bad. Plug some gear and belay or continue up more low angle run out slabs take you to near the top. Surmount the last slightly overhanging 10' to reach the top.

Descend to the right by hiking and scrambling around the south side of the cliff.

Location

Start from the lowest point of the cliff at the bottom of the wide white streak.

Protection

Standard Keyhole Rack

Photos

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