Type: Sport, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches
FA: J von Kaenel, B Wenger, M Fuchs 1994
Page Views: 73 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route

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Jürg von Känel and co. worked hard to make a route of sustained difficulty – the route avoids weaknesses in the cliff and follows a line of strength, with several pitches leaving crack systems to go over bolted faces, a peculiar but enjoyable way of making a route. Finger crack on P3 is a real highlight.

P1 7a (6b, 2 p.a.) Start not in the obvious right-leaning crack but instead on a blank face. With glacial retreat and low summer snow, a little of unprotected climbing over the bergschrund is necessary to at least clip the long sling on the bolt. Yard up the sling to the ledge or go for the slab climbing. Above, a left-leaning dihedral/roof forms the 7a crux; or clip the bolts and swing through.

P2 6a Mantle up and move left to good crack system.

P3 6b Excellent fingertip crack with tiny feet! Nuts and bolts protect the crux.

P4 6a+ Leave the crack and face climb right over a bulge to a wide, easy cracks

P5 5b Super fun and easy dihedral for 20 m, then move right to two-bolt anchor on the slab (again, leaving the obvious crack). Do not get boondoggled by an abseil station up above in the dihedral.

P6 6a+ Face climb to wide cracks again

P7 5c+ Pick up and left to a bulge. Two bolts protect face moves to belay ledge.

P8 6b Short but sweet finish to the top!

Rap the route to descend.


Right side of Gletschorn, with a long sling hanging from the first draw.


10 draws and a rack of nuts