PRINT: Rock Climb Regular Route, Central Arizona

Regular Route

5.7, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 2.5 from 19 votes
FA: Bill Forrest and Gary Garbert, 1966
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Superstition Mo… > Siphon Draw > Crying Dinosaur

Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.

Description

Crying Dinosaur is opposite Spiderwalk in Suction Gulley and offers beautiful views of Siphon Draw and the surrounding Flatirons.
The rock is typical however, has been cleaned over the years and remains pretty solid in most places.
The crux appears low in the climb but goes pretty straightforward through its pitches

Location

Siphon Draw Drainage
The start is on the North Side of the pinnacle - access the pinnacle by crossing the wash and going up and behind the south side.

Protection

Typical trad rack, there is an ancient piton on the second pitch, but because of its placement and rope drag potential, it can be avoided. TWO 60 M ROPES ARE REQUIRED FOR RAPPEL.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

How did this saguaro get all the way up here? This is the ledge that the big rappel starts from.

More sexy hardware photos - single bolt on P3

Fixed pin on pitch two.

The tunnel on pitch one.

Old style bolts found on the route.

Looking up at the start.

The Crying Dinosaur is a great multipitch adventure overlooking the Siphon Draw trailhead. The route is accessed around the south side of the pinnacle Photo Courtesy of ClimbPHX.com

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MtnDanSW
El Paso, Tx

Great rambling adventure climb.

Approach- about an hour and 15 minutes. Turn right off the main trail and go cross country to the base of the climb.

Gear- Two ropes, nuts, small tricams to blue, small cams mostly, about 10 draws/ runners, slings to freshen up rappel anchors.

Climb
Pitch 1- Circle around the pinnacle and start route at belay bolt. Big first move to ledge to tunnel and single belay bolt.
Pitch 2- Move right and up on good holds and thin pro to wider crack system with old pin to ledge. Follow ledge up left to two bolt belay.
Pitch 3- clip bolt above anchors and move up into easy thin protected terrain that will take you to the top anchors.

Rappel
Rap 1 is off top to large ledge with cactus.
Rap 2 is from large ledge to ground with two ropes. Bottom half of rappel is free hanging! Mar 26, 2017

Nam Hoin

5.4 PG13

Great adventure, but wear pants! I wore shorts and the desert brush ate me alive. I felt like the first move on pitch 1 was in 5.8-5.9 territory but after that it seemed to go at around 5.4ish. I rated it PG13 only because the rock isn't top quality to eat pro so it can get a little run out. Mar 23, 2019

Scar D

This is definitely not a very difficult climb for experienced climbers. the start may seem a bit difficult but if you like to move your legs well, it is a easy.

The rappel webbing could help a change. Nov 27, 2019

Christopher Czaplicki
Coarsegold, CA

A really great moderate Supes tower with decent rock for the area. Should be on every Phoenix climber's to do list. Trip report: TheMtsAreCalling.com/crying… Feb 3, 2020

CTB
Cave Creek, AZ

Once you pass through the hole, you will reach a single old bolt on the face to your left at hip level. This is the start of pitch 2. The original second pitch goes straight up from here, stemming up to a bolt that is blocked from view about 15' up, then traverses right. Feb 17, 2021