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Routes in Suction Gully

Crying Dinosaur T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lickety Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spider Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 725 total · 21/month
Shared By: ClimbPHX.com on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Crying Dinosaur is opposite Spiderwalk in Suction Gulley and offers beautiful views of Siphon Draw and the surrounding Flatirons.
The rock is typical however, has been cleaned over the years and remains pretty solid in most places.
The crux appears low in the climb but goes pretty straightforward through its pitches

Location [Suggest Change]

Siphon Draw Drainage
The start is on the North Side of the pinnacle - access the pinnacle by crossing the wash and going up and behind the south side.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Typical trad rack, there is an ancient piton on the second pitch, but because of its placement and rope drag potential, it can be avoided

Photos

MtnDanAz  
 
Great rambling adventure climb.

Approach- about an hour and 15 minutes. Turn right off the main trail and go cross country to the base of the climb.

Gear- Two ropes, nuts, small tricams to blue, small cams mostly, about 10 draws/ runners, slings to freshen up rappel anchors.

Climb
Pitch 1- Circle around the pinnacle and start route at belay bolt. Big first move to ledge to tunnel and single belay bolt.
Pitch 2- Move right and up on good holds and thin pro to wider crack system with old pin to ledge. Follow ledge up left to two bolt belay.
Pitch 3- clip bolt above anchors and move up into easy thin protected terrain that will take you to the top anchors.

Rappel
Rap 1 is off top to large ledge with cactus.
Rap 2 is from large ledge to ground with two ropes. Bottom half of rappel is free hanging! Mar 26, 2017

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