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Routes in Lake O'Hara

Abott Pass Hut T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Trad, 3000 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 182 total, 6/month
Shared By: David Rice on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Parks Canada Bus Ride Details

Description

The Abott Pass Hut is located on the boundary between Yoho National Park and Banff National Park. This climb is listed in Yoho National Park since that is the most sensible and common approach. The hut is managed by the Alpine Club of Canada. It is a great base camp if you are attempting climb Mount Victoria or Mount Lefroy. Many people hike to the hut to stay for the night just for the experience. There is some red tape involved and the hike there isn't easy.

The hut was built in 1922 and at 9,598 feet it is the second highest permanent structures in Canada. The hut is a National Historic Site of Canada. The hut can sleep 24 people on foam mattresses upstairs. The kitchen has propane stoves for cooking. There is a good assortment of pots, pans, dishes, mugs, and cutlery. There is a wood stove with provide wood for heating. There is a real nice outhouse.

The hut can be reserved though the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) alpineclubofcanada.ca/huts/…. While reserving the hut with the ACC you can also purchase a backcountry permit and bus passes to Lake O’Hara. If you don’t have a bus pass it’s about an eight mile hike along a dirt road to Lake O’Hara. American Alpine Club (AAC) members can purchase a Canadian Hut Upgrade from the AAC and save a little bit of money on the hut.

From Lake O’Hara it will take four to five hours for an in shape person to reach the hut. During the hike you’ll gain about 3,000 feet. The hike is pleasant until Lake Oesa. After Lake Oesa is when you’ll start working your way up a scree slope. The route is well marked in this area with blue rectangles painted on rocks. You’ll go through a narrow scree gully then across to rock ledges. Past the rock ledges there is a trail that will take you to the base of the main large scree slope that will take you up to the pass. In the main scree slope you’ll gain 1,150 feet of elevation. Plan to spend some quality time in the scree slope that one climber charmingly called a real meat grinder. There isn’t a route so just keep working your way up the scree slope. I only caught a few glimpses of the hut while on the scree slope. The hut is on climbers left. Helmets are STRONGLY recommended. Depending on conditions an ice axe and crampons may be required. Trekking poles can make the scree slope a little easier.

The weather can change quickly. It can snow anytime of the year. Be sure to keep an eye on the weather and go prepared. This is in an alpine environment and it should be considered a serious undertaking.

Protection

Helmets are a real good idea for the scree slope. Depending on conditions an ice axe and crampons may be required.

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