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Routes in Duckbill

Cowboy Fever S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duckbill T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Eddie Bagoon and Tracy Ramm circa 1990
Page Views: 149 total, 5/month
Shared By: BBQ on Aug 23, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

If are going to flip a coin to determine if you are going to climb Duckbill or Cowboy Fever, put the coin back in your pocket and climb Cowboy Fever.

I would give this route four stars if it wasn't for the annoying tree at the start. After escaping the initial foliage enjoy a nice, slabby start on big holds for about the first three bolts. Pull a couple of sporty bulges on big holds while clipping bolts and then scrape and claw your way up the thin, slabby five ten section between the sixth and seventh bolt. Well protected and fun!

Get above that seventh bolt and chuck a #1 and #2 cam into a horizontal crack and enjoy and nice slabby section on a true arete with big holds and one last bolt before some cool down moves to the anchors.

I have nothing against the suicidal 5.7 from the 70's on the other side. But the age of the explorer is over and the age of the athlete has begun. Do this route and go home in one piece. Why climb something that could send you to the hospital when you could catch the Cowboy Fever instead?

Location

West arete of the Duckbill formation.

Protection

8 bolts. #1 and #2 Camalots. The anchors are slings and cordelettes with quicklinks.

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