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Slow Speed Chase

5.10b, Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 30 votes
FA: Nutting/Wolfe 2015
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > OJ Buttress

Description

P1 (5.10b) MIXED-100': Climb past a bolt to a roof, then place an optional .75". Step left and place a 2" piece under the first roof. Move left past the first corner, then clip a bolt above. Move left again and then right onto a slab. Climb the sustained, bolted slab to a ramp and a final layback past a fixed draw to the anchors.
P2 (5.7) MIXED-175': Continue up easier mixed terrain, passing a set of rappel rings. A final bolted face (crux) delivers you to anchors.
P3 (5.9) MIXED-70': Traverse left and up to a gear-protected dihedral, capped by a small bulge and a bolt.

Location

Leftmost route. Look for a ramp with a bolt at 15'.

Protection

14 runners with a couple long ones, singles to 3.5".

4 rappels with a 70-meter rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The view does not suck here, nor the climbing.
[Hide Photo] The view does not suck here, nor the climbing.
Morgan finishing up the third pitch on the FA of "Slow-speed Chase".
[Hide Photo] Morgan finishing up the third pitch on the FA of "Slow-speed Chase".
Morgan on the first ascent of Slow-speed Chase.<br>
The orange roof that marks the area can be seen above.
[Hide Photo] Morgan on the first ascent of Slow-speed Chase. The orange roof that marks the area can be seen above.
Morgan starting up the 3rd pitch on the First Ascent. Photo: Maidy
[Hide Photo] Morgan starting up the 3rd pitch on the First Ascent. Photo: Maidy

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun climbing! Really cool features on this one. Aug 24, 2015
[Hide Comment] P1 is the best pitch on the buttress, 3.5 stars. Nice job and thanks for a great pitch in a fun area. Sep 30, 2015
Rick Ziegler
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] 1st pitch is money! Good moves and good variety of styles. Feb 10, 2016
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Regarding pitch 1 only, I didn't move left around the corner at the bulge for the more oblique/easier approach. It was, ah, how do you say, direct? Direttisimo? My tunnel vision added some oomph but it was sorta fun this way with some stemming and sloper sidepull mojo. The patina of the rock is very interesting, Mr. Wolfe was kind of enough to explain that it was probably a deposit of limestone seeping onto and covering the rock. It takes a minute to get used to this change in texture, but it's not too slick as of yet. May 23, 2016
Adam Wills
Bishop, Ca
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Really fun climbing! Well protected.. would definitely do it again.. Jun 11, 2017
BAd
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Get on this one! Sustained, challenging, fantastic. Oct 23, 2018
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] I didn't love this climb - thought it was "OK". Glad I did it, but not one I'd repeat. The "coating" on the first pitch made for very insecure (and not in a fun way) climbing IMO. I love slab, but found it difficult to enjoy P1 with the strange textured coating. On a positive note, the finishing bulge on P1 is sweet with the bolt placements well thought out. P2 is meh. And P3 is short. Jun 8, 2019
MisterE Wolfe
Grass Valley, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Andy, sorry you didn't enjoy it - I've been pissed off at times when I get to the ramp about how insecure the climbing feels.

Regardless, the texture is solid but I agree it is unusual. The off-set holds make the "slab climbing" a bit more dynamic than your usual low 5.10, as well.

One star? Really? Jun 8, 2019
Joe Crawford
Truckee, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know about the brown hangers that start up just left of the start described here? I followed those thinking they were the correct start, felt very stiff for 10b... May 8, 2020
Danny Sandoval
Reno
 
[Hide Comment] for p1, skip the first set of anchors and belay at the rappel rings mentioned in p2 description for a better belay stance. Jul 13, 2020
Colin B
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Re-upping the Joe Crawford comment from May 2020 - was out at OJ today with Bob Harrington and we unintentionally used the starting variation left of the FA line that had additional bolts. Anyone know anything more about this variation? We believe it harder than .10b and there is now a hanger missing from the second bolt which made it spicey for a couple of thin slab moves to the third bolt. Not looking to put info on it up as I don't know the name, original grade proposed, FA-ist, etc. Great line though and likely at 10+/11- if looking to call the original start .10b. May 25, 2023