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Routes in Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges

"Out of the Wilderness" (on Bottom Slab) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
"The White Face" (on Bottom Slab) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
18 Holes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
A.M.C. Route (on bottom cliff) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Catch 22 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dag-Nabit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
PB&J T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Ringwraith T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 190 ft
FA: FA - Unknown / As Climbed By : RH & RW Aug 2015
Page Views: 96 total · 3/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 21, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb is located on the slab/face BELOW the Half-Way Tree Ledge. HIGHLY recommended as a top rope.  Leading it would be at least "R" rated. There are minimal possible protection points on the route.  Three stars as a TR.

While listed as "1 pitch climb" it is necessary to climb a second pitch on the "upper slab" to reach the normal access point...the top of the cliff.

ACCESS - Rap with two ropes from the 3/8" bolt (with gear back-up) at the top of Ringwraith to the double bolt anchor/station at the Half-Way Tree Ledge. From here rap with two 60m ropes to the bottom of the cliff. (You'd probably make it with a 60m and a 50m if the knot was moved several feet down from the anchors.)

P1 - In 2015 we did this as a Top Rope through the Dbl bolt anchor on the Half-Way ledge. We started on a ledge several feet above the starting ledge of "Out of the Wilderness".)   On a return trip in 2018 we started on the ground.

START- On the ground below a series of 2 or 3 easy overlaps.  Climb easily over the overlaps onto a low-angle face with wonderful incuts. Up this to a small blueberry ledge, step left on the blueberries and then up on a indistinct dike continuing to the white slab ("face") of rock about 15-20 ft left of "Out of the Wilderness". Climb straight up to the dbl bolt anchor/station on the Half-Way Ledge. 190 ft 5.7 +/- ?

Finish on one of the routes on the Upper Face, Catch 22 is suggested to maintain the grade.

Location

On the bottom slab, BELOW the Half-Way Tree Ledge

Protection

Very little protection, especially on the crux "White Face": some "holes" that would take medium-sized cams (e.g. #0.5, purple; #1, green Camalots) or TriCams; also thin wires.

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