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Routes in Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges

"Out of the Wilderness" (on Bottom Slab) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
"The White Face" (on Bottom Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
18 Holes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
A.M.C. Route (on bottom cliff) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Catch 22 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dag-Nabit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
PB&J T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Ringwraith T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: FA - Unknown / As Climbed By : RH & RW Aug 2015
Page Views: 61 total, 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 21, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb is located on the slab/face BELOW the Half-Way Tree Ledge and starts, essentially, on the ground at the base of the cliff.

While listed as "1 pitch climb" it is necessary to climb a second pitch on the "upper slab" to reach the normal access point...the top of the cliff.

ACCESS - Rap with two ropes from the 3/8" bolt (with gear back-up) at the top of Ringwraith to the double bolt anchor/station at the Half-Way Ledge. From here rap with two ropes to the bottom of the cliff.

P1 - We did this as a Top Rope though the Dbl bolt anchor on the Half-Way ledge. (Starting 35m down, on a ledge several feet above the starting ledge of "Out of the Wilderness".) Leading it would be at least "R" rated. Think "Arrow" at the Gunks, without the bolts. (as Arrow, was first led!)
Pad easily up the low angle slab headed for the white slab of rock about 15-20 ft left of "Out of the Wilderness". Climb straight up to the dbl bolt anchor/station on the Half-Way Ledge. 140 ft 5.7 +/- ?

Finish on one of the routes on the Upper Face, Catch 22 is suggested to maintain the grade.

Location

On the bottom slab, BELOW the Half-Way Tree Ledge

Protection

Very little protection, especially on the crux "White Face": some "holes" that would take medium-sized cams (e.g. #0.5, purple; #1, green Camalots) or TriCams; also thin wires.

Photos

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