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Routes in Shabazz Palace

Babylon Rave T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2+
Type: Trad, Aid, 240 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jacob Warren, Mike Stimola: Aug 2015
Page Views: 415 total, 15/month
Shared By: jakobi on Aug 21, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a striking path that ascends the SE face of the Shabazz Palace. The route essentially follows three cracks which open and shut; when one crack closes another opens up allowing further progress. Some soft rock is encountered but for the most part is pretty good. There are several roofs to be negotiated and the entire route overhangs 30 feet or so.
P1: Ascend the crack system through some soft rock passing a short roof. Above the crack pinches shut- I hammered two pins here but subsequent ascents will likely go clean. Switch cracks out right and ride it up and through a wild roof. Make another crack switch above the roof and continue through mostly straight-forward aiding to a two bolt hanging belay. C2+/A1
P2: Follow the crack off the belay until it closes and switch out left into another crack, follow this up making yet another crack switch back right, continue through a small roof to a two bolt belay at a small stance. C1+.
P3: Easy aiding off the belay to another crack switch and another short roof. Climb into a slot and aid around the spooky coffin block, clip a bolt out right and manage through some technical sugar to reach the cleft below the summit. Easy free climbing leads to a nice flat summit and a two bolt anchor. C2/5.4.

Location

One double rope rappel with 70m ropes from the summit to the ground.

Protection

A triple set of cams with many extras in the finger range and at least one #4 C4, a double set of C3's, a set of micro offset stoppers. Bring a couple of Lost Arrows. A set of offset Aliens would be helpful. Many Long runners.

Photos

Nice work fellas! Looking at that crack in the past, I assumed it would take a lot more nailing. Well done. Aug 25, 2015