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Routes in Shabazz Palace

Babylon Rave T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2+
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Type: Trad, Aid, 240 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jacob Warren, Mike Stimola: Aug 2015
Page Views: 539 total · 15/month
Shared By: jakobi on Aug 21, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a striking path that ascends the SE face of the Shabazz Palace. The route essentially follows three cracks which open and shut; when one crack closes another opens up allowing further progress. Some soft rock is encountered but for the most part is pretty good. There are several roofs to be negotiated and the entire route overhangs 30 feet or so.
P1: Ascend the crack system through some soft rock passing a short roof. Above the crack pinches shut- I hammered two pins here but subsequent ascents will likely go clean. Switch cracks out right and ride it up and through a wild roof. Make another crack switch above the roof and continue through mostly straight-forward aiding to a two bolt hanging belay. C2+/A1
P2: Follow the crack off the belay until it closes and switch out left into another crack, follow this up making yet another crack switch back right, continue through a small roof to a two bolt belay at a small stance. C1+.
P3: Easy aiding off the belay to another crack switch and another short roof. Climb into a slot and aid around the spooky coffin block, clip a bolt out right and manage through some technical sugar to reach the cleft below the summit. Easy free climbing leads to a nice flat summit and a two bolt anchor. C2/5.4.

Location

One double rope rappel with 70m ropes from the summit to the ground.

Protection

A triple set of cams with many extras in the finger range and at least one #4 C4, a double set of C3's, a set of micro offset stoppers. Bring a couple of Lost Arrows. A set of offset Aliens would be helpful. Many Long runners.

Photos

Nice work fellas! Looking at that crack in the past, I assumed it would take a lot more nailing. Well done. Aug 25, 2015
Spencer Todd Cone
Boulder, CO
 
Spencer Todd Cone   Boulder, CO
 
Kickass route! My partner Dave Hoven and I left the hammer in the bag for this one.

Dave led the P1 clean with micro stoppers and Lowe Balls for the crux. He called it C2+/C3-. Definitely potential for a gnarly ground fall there.

P2 is wickedly fun. Someone real strong should try to free this someday. It's amazing!

P3 had some sugar for sure, but it did not seem quite C2. There was a pretty solid .75 placement hiding out in the tough section.

We rappelled from the summit to the P2 anchor and then from P2 to the ground. This was not wise as we got our rope stuck pulling it off the summit and had to pull some shenanigans to retrieve it. Nov 28, 2017
Spencer Cone and I climbed this last week. Fantastic aid climb up a remarkably clean system. Excellent work by the FA team, especially through that first pitch. Along with what Spencer mentions, an offset alien or two are extremely helpful. Thanks Jacob and Mike for putting this up and posting it. I hope this gets some traffic. Be safe! Nov 29, 2017

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