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Routes in Black Ridge, Kangerlussuaq

Mosquito Gulley T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Raven T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 376 total, 14/month
Shared By: MalcolmS on Aug 20, 2015
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Description

Varied climbing including finger cracks, fist jams, face moves, and open corners, takes you up the center of this impressive wall overlooking town. Rock is generally high quality though the route has seen very little traffic. This, plus the varied terrain and spectacular views make it a must-do climb. Expect to encounter debris and vegetation in many cracks. First ascent unknown, likely made during the days of the active Sondrestrom Air Base. Ascent in July 2014 found a few fixed bolts and some old abandoned gear in cracks.

Pitch 1, 5.7, starts left of cliff center, above a telephone pole, in an enjoyable finger-width crack which tops out on face moves to a narrow grassy ledge with bolts. Pitch 2, 5.8, Starts to the left of the anchors and then trends right up an angled flake with underclings and jams to a small but adequate belay stance on gear. Pitch 3, 5.8, continued varied face and crack moves toward the base of a left-facing open corner. May be split into 2 pitches for rope drag. Pitch 4, 5.7, starts below an open, left-facing corner system, to the top.

Location

Starts just left of center cliff, identified by where the cliff descends all the way to the dirt road. Hike left past the telephone pole, up a sandy rise to an obvious finger-crack start, about 20 feet above the road.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 cam, 60m rope.

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