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Routes in Pinnacle on North Ridge of Peak 11,158, West of Ruth Lake

Pinnacle on North Ridge of Peak 11,158, "Standard Route," South Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 210 total, 7/month
Shared By: PeterSLenz on Aug 19, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Look West from Ruth Lake, and you will see a small pinnacle on the North Ridge of Peak 11,158. From the East side of the col between the Pinnacle and peak 11,158 ascend a wide crack to a ledge. Traverse West on the ledge and climb easily to the summit, which is a pile of detached blocks. DO NOT RAPPEL FROM THESE BLOCKS!!!

Descent

Rappel from the ledge 20 feet BELOW the summit. Do not rappel off the loose summit blocks!

Protection

Bring some large nuts, a few small cams and 20 feet of webbing for a rap anchor. A short rope is fine; the route is only about 50 feet high, and the climbing is easy.

Photos

JimG  
Years ago I had heard this thing referred to as Jenga Tower. Can't remember who told me that. It has been climbed at least 10-15 years ago. A bit of a hike for not much climbing, but a pretty spot. Jun 27, 2017
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
 
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
 
Rip told me he stood on top of that thing at some point. I don't remember him having a name for it. I've been calling it the 'Ruth Tooth' . I just climbed it for the first time 7/25/2015. Pretty cool feature. North Face goes too. Aug 20, 2015
PeterSLenz
Salt Lake City
 
PeterSLenz   Salt Lake City
 
If you have any first ascent info, or if a name for this formation exists, please let me know, and I will edit the route description. Dave Kimura and I climbed it on 08/16/2015, and found some old tattered sling material sitting on (not wrapped around) a large block. We assume the pinnacle has had a previous ascent.

A 5.8 finger crack ascends part way up the East Face, and you can join the standard route (loose blocks) or continue straight up to the summit on marginal protection. Aug 19, 2015