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Routes in Main Slab

A Night Climb for Two Knights T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Across the Universe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Asteroid Belt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bear Minimum (to intercept Star Trek, and Gamma Ray) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bradley's Main Slab Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Celestial Path T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Gamma Ray T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hugo's Horror Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sputnik T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Standard Route - Left Variant Lower, 1929 Route Upper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Star Trek and the "Lost in Space" 5.7+R Variant ? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Time-Space Continuum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ursa Major T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA? / As-Climbed-By R.Hall, R. Weissleder, and Oliver Weissleder Aug 14, 2015
Page Views: 223 total, 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 19, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

History: The impetus for this climb was a remark made by another climber inquiring about “the climbs on the slab beyond “Across the Universe””. I said that they were quite nice once one got beyond the first two pitches, which included some moss-clad rock at the top of P1 of Star Trek [But see the "revisted P1" of A Night Climb for Two Nights which avoids the lichen and bad rock portions of P1 of Star Trek] ...and the “black band” of poor rock on P2, which also involved quite a traverse that was nearly impossible to protect for the second (unless two-rope technique was used). That got me wondering if there was a better way to get to those nice slabs where one would have to do the bare minimum of climbing on the “black band”. All things considered, the original line of "A Night Climb / Star Trek" may be better, especially climbing the variations/alternates for P1 of "A Night Climb".

The name of the route came about when we spied a yearling black bear cub wandering around near the 1st belay of Star Trek, 50-60 ft to our right. Never saw “mom”!

Approach: Same as for Time Traveler and Across the Universe [“ATU”]. Once at the base of the “Time Traveler / ACU slab”, continue up the right side of the slab, passing the start of ACU, then steeply up, close to the slab’s right side and passing a HUGE maple tree (3 ft diameter) and on to a second HUGE maple tree.

START: At the 2nd huge maple tree with a minor slab above and to the left. About 15-20 ft up there is a 2 ft overlap that diminishes and ends on the left. (Photo)

P1 – Climb the not-as-easy-as-it-looks unprotected slab to the overlap where good gear can be placed. Turn the overlap on the left and continue up solid, but not very protectable rock to a tree ledge on the right below the black band. 100- 115 ft 5.5 R
While climbing above the overlap, the slab bolts of ATU will be seen about 25-30 ft to your left. At the belay you will be about level with the 5.10 crux of ATU.

P2 – Climb up to the jutting flake (15-20 ft up, photo) in the ‘black band’, protect in it ( the lower the safer) and climb over with a high step to the left. (5.6 -5.7) It is probably best not to crank too hard on the flake. Continue for about 30-35 ft more of black rock (poor gear), then breaking out into clean, hard open slab. We continued up on the slab for another 75-100 feet to a gear belay [160 ft 5.6 – 5.7 and 5.5-5.6 R/X for the upper black band part],.... BUT, once on the solid slab, a better approach would be to place a good, solid piece of gear as a directional for the followers, and then start moving rightwards on a rising diagonal (photo).

P3 – We did a full 100+/- ft traverse from our belay, even descending a little to keep to the easiest rock [ 5.1 – 5.3 ] and intercepted A Night Climb/Star Trek about 30 +/- ft into its 3rd pitch, about 20-25 ft above the 3/8" & ¼” bolt combo. Continue up P3 of Star Trek by climbing the right-leaning weakness of slightly rounded bulges (gear) to the double bolt anchor above a nice ledge on the left. 180-200 ft (less if P2 ends by diagonaling right) 5.6 and 5.1-5.3 R/X (on the traverse)

P4 – (of A Night Climb/Star Trek) Continue up slightly right on the faint dike and weakness, passing a double protection bolt ( old ¼” plus a new 3/8”) about 40 ft up, and then passing another ¼ “ bolt to a double bolt anchor. 100 ft 5.4 - 5.5 and 5.4 R

>>>> Star Trek now continues up and left. See Route Description

>>>> Lost in Space 5.7+R climbs the slab directly above the belay; see Route Description.

>>>> Gamma Ray: See Route Description and COMMENT. A VERY enjoyable pitch. Since the dbl bolt anchor at the end of P4 was put in, Gamma Ray moves right off the belay and climbs easy slab well above the bush-tree ledge (*the FA of Gamma Ray started from that tree ledge) and then climbs directly up the white rock to the left end of the overlap (1/4" bolt) 130 ft 5.5 - 5.6 protection rating depends on your faith in the bolt. A “screamer” is recommended.
NOTE: A rap with a single 60m rope will make it from the oak tree on this ledge back down to the dbl bolt anchor at the end of P4. See descent posted in the route Star Trek.

Protection

Standard Rack

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