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Routes in The Main Cliff

Caving Misbeehaving S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cool Breeze, Couple of Knees S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Donkey following Carrots S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Don’t Be Jenga S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fabricated for your pleasure S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Good Looking Bat Hooking A3- PG13
Sweetness is in the hand of the beeholder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Eric Samis - August / 2015
Page Views: 145 total, 5/month
Shared By: samis1 on Aug 19, 2015
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley

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Description

This is the longest route in Greenhead. Start on the ground, below and to the climber’s right of the cave. Follow 4 bolts up a face, trending left into the cave (5.6ish)

  • *There are 2 bolts to the climber’s right of the cave that protect the crux. The second (higher) bolt can be “reachy” so if you’re not concerned about the onsight, feel free to rappel and pre-hang a draw or even extend it if you’re really short.**

Climbing out of the cave (crux) is some of the best climbing in the city. Very cool natural features and fun, funky roof climbing leads to a ledge above the cave. Clip a bolt and climb up and left through a fun face past 2 more bolts. (*Climbing the face avoids the chossy corner*) From here, climb straight up the easy top section passing one last bolt on your way to a chain anchor. Don’t forget to turn around and enjoy the view :)

Protection

Sport(10) – 2 bolt anchor with chain

Rappelling this route with a 70m rope is recommended. there's only about 3-4m of rope on the ground when using the 70m and I have yet to try to rap with a 60m rope.

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