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Routes in e. Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alan Nelson, Vaino Kodas 7/86
Page Views: 365 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony Lewis on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a good introduction to hard, scary TM slab climbing. Should get an r/x rating because a fall between 1st and 2nd bolt would not be good.......Called a "squeeze job" by some when it was put up, but plenty of room between climbs by today's standards. 1st pitch: Go to a small crack below the crack at the start of the Great White Book. Anchor your belayer in. Advise your belayer ahead of time to unplug anchor piece and slide down the slab if you fall between the first and second bolts hopefully reeling in rope and thus potentially saving you from rolling over ramp (not kidding). After the first bolt, climb continuous 5.10 moves for 25' hoping you don't fall, diagonalling left and clip the second bolt. Breath a huge sigh of relief.... Crux is just after third bolt. Be careful as some of the holds are friable potato chips but at least your at the bolt. Continue up continuous 5.9 for another 25', clip the fourth bolt and give another, if not as forcefull, sigh of relief....carry on to anchors. The second pitch has one 5.10 move after the second bolt and finish's after easy climbing at the Eunuch's first pitch anchor. You can rap down with two 60m ropes to the top of Hermaphrodite and down to Footnote anchors then off or continue up Eunuch and off. Note: With the advent of people using 70m ropes to rap off Hermaphrodite, watch out when starting Cross Reference as someone may toss rope over you when climbing which would be a major bummer. I know that MP wants you to put "sport" if you use only quick draws but this is NOT a sport climb......

Protection [Suggest Change]

Five draws and whatever you use for anchors......


Ben Horowitz
Ben Horowitz   Berkeley
The potato chip flakes are very real... Couldn't get my feet to stick on the crusty surface. Hopefully it is a bit cleaner now after my 45 minutes of flailing. Aug 5, 2016

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