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Routes in (4) Star Wall

Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cry of the Gerbil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Star T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daytime Drama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Last Days T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Wing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lethal Dose T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Levitate T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mantra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantra Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morning Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neutron Star T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Paddee's Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tim S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turning Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 219 total, 8/month
Shared By: kent benesch on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

All the pins have been replaced with bolts. A new anchor has been added instead of sharing anchors with Neutron Star. The new finish is longer, a bit run out, but the difficulties ease quickly. There are a few 5.12 sections on this route. One comes low on gear, the other comes at the first bolt.

Location

The route is just left of Neutron Star.

Protection

Small trad gear and quick draws. Gear and 3 bolts. Starts and finishes on gear.

Photos

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Jon Rhoderick  
5.12b
+1 for not R rated, I did not place any ballnuts or RPs but I did use a 0/1 and 2/3 offset cams. I didn't really think there was a possibility of a fall bigger than your average sport whip. Nov 27, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
This thing is incredible! It's easy to hang a rope on it by traversing in from the Morning Star anchor to try moves/suss gear. That being said, it protects pretty well for an R rated route and wouldn't be unreasonable to try and onsight with the right gear. The runouts come high enough up on the route that there's really good gear below the string of small stuff that will hold the 40 footer if the small stuff pulls. Ballnuts are crucial as are RPs. It's also worth bringing a 0.75. Jun 24, 2017