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Metal Pecker

5.7 PG13, Trad, Alpine, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 7 votes
FA: Philip Matena, Vlada Matena, Tom Rogers (2014)
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Cathedral Peak > N Buttress
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Description

Pitch 1 (5.3 PG). Scramble up low 5th class slabs to a gear belay (use small cams) beneath the bottom of a flake.

Pitch 2 (5.7 PG). Climb past 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel rings under a small arch. Good friction climbing on small knobs.

Descend: 240 feet. A single rappel using two 60 meter ropes plus short third class walk-off.

GPS N37.86256 W119.39920.

Location

The route starts 200 feet left of the toe of the Buttress.

Protection

5 bolts, plus small to medium size cams for Pitch 1 belay anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Philip Matena placing a bolt on the FA lead.
[Hide Photo] Philip Matena placing a bolt on the FA lead.
Vic Madrid on Pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Vic Madrid on Pitch 2.
Vic Madrid on Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Vic Madrid on Pitch 2
someone is getting sleepy...
[Hide Photo] someone is getting sleepy...
Vic Madrid on Metal Pecker.
[Hide Photo] Vic Madrid on Metal Pecker.
This photo illustrates the belay location below Pitch 2. Use small cams in the cracks.
[Hide Photo] This photo illustrates the belay location below Pitch 2. Use small cams in the cracks.
Philip Matena at the top of Pitch 2. The rope depicts the route.
[Hide Photo] Philip Matena at the top of Pitch 2. The rope depicts the route.