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Metal Pecker
5.7 PG13,
Trad, Alpine, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
FA: Philip Matena, Vlada Matena, Tom Rogers (2014)
California
> Yosemite NP
> Tuolumne Meadows
> Cathedral Range
> Cathedral Peak
> N Buttress
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Pitch 1 (5.3 PG). Scramble up low 5th class slabs to a gear belay (use small cams) beneath the bottom of a flake.
Pitch 2 (5.7 PG). Climb past 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel rings under a small arch. Good friction climbing on small knobs.
Descend: 240 feet. A single rappel using two 60 meter ropes plus short third class walk-off.
GPS N37.86256 W119.39920.
Location
The route starts 200 feet left of the toe of the Buttress.
Protection
5 bolts, plus small to medium size cams for Pitch 1 belay anchor.
[Hide Photo] Vic Madrid on Metal Pecker.
[Hide Photo] This photo illustrates the belay location below Pitch 2. Use small cams in the cracks.
[Hide Photo] Philip Matena at the top of Pitch 2. The rope depicts the route.