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Double Down
5.7,
Trad, Alpine, 260 ft (79 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.5 from 8
votes
FA: Philip Matena, Vlada Matena, Tom Rogers (2014)
California
> Yosemite NP
> Tuolumne Meadows
> Cathedral Range
> Cathedral Peak
> N Buttress
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The route starts in a small depression 400 feet left of the toe of the Buttress and 200 feet above and to the left of a large crack that runs diagonally left and up the North Buttress. There is a discolored rock pattern on the right side of the depression, and a short crack runs up the face through the back of the depression.
The first pitch goes up the face a few feet to the left of the crack. The second pitch follows the flakes to the right and ends on top of a pedestal.
Pitch 1 (5.7) 140 feet. 5 bolts and an optional 1-2" cams in horizontal cracks to protect climbing before the first bolt.
Pitch 2 (5.4) 80 feet. Cams: 1 each 1.25-3. Optional extra 2.
Descend: Two 60 meter ropes are required to rappel. A single rappel with two 60m ropes from the pitch 2 anchor leads to a short third-class walk-off to the ground. It is possible to rappel with a single 70m rope using 2 rappels.
GPS N37.86229 W119.39870.
![Philip Matena and Tom Rogers on the second ascent of the route.]()
[Hide Photo] Philip Matena and Tom Rogers on the second ascent of the route.
![Looking down the route from Pitch 2 anchor. Philip Matena rests at the Pitch 1 anchor.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking down the route from Pitch 2 anchor. Philip Matena rests at the Pitch 1 anchor.
![Philip Matena starting the FA. Notice the cam placement near the small bush.]()
[Hide Photo] Philip Matena starting the FA. Notice the cam placement near the small bush.
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Fort Bragg, CA