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Routes in Wolfs Head

Brass Monkey T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Driese-Kehoe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fred Becky's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Dragon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Red Cloud T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face, Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Face-Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buffalo T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Fred Becky
Page Views: 1,858 total · 48/month
Shared By: Suzy Stoke on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Fred Becky hard-man route! Off-Widthy, leaning-chimney, licheny, splitter cracks, flakes, ADVENTURE route. Arguably the best view of Warbonnet and Watchman's tower in the Cirque.

Not for the faint of heart, Alpine Pirates drinking whiskey and practicing hand-stacking technique probably got the FA on this route.

Did i love it? Did i hate it? It's growing on me with time.... my partner and I did this route car-to-car in around 36 hours for a "weekend trip" from Salt Lake. Oy Vey.

Crux is either P1 or P3, you decide...if you stay on route that is.


Walk along Wolf's Head trail as it branches off the south side of Pingora until you get to a slabby/flowery ramp. Follow the ramp along the base of Wolf's head, some class 4 traversing required to get to the base. Climb starts directly below the "Thumb" looking spire of Wolf's head.

Getting Down: Two 70's get you to the bottom in three long yet beautiful rappels. Beware of rock fall when you pull the rope, lots of loose blocks and places your rope can get stuck in a flake.


Bring doubles of most sizes (C3,X4,C4). 3 natural anchors and 3 sling-alpine rock stations.

No bolts, I wish there were bolts, I wish there were semi-safe rappels. Three rappels I thought I might die from pulling out the flake or chalk-stone which was barely wedged into the crack slung with decade old webbing. I'm thinking about going back and drilling bolted rap stations, is that kosher in the Winds?

  • Molly and I started singing old folk songs out loud to get our minds off the death defying rappels, good thing we are both relatively light girls..

Sidenote: There was a fixed #10 Stopper and someone left a new .75 cam around P2 & P3.


Ty Gittins
Ty Gittins   bozeman
not sure about adding rappel bolts to an established route that is historic...could detract from the adventurous quality of not only this route but also the east ridge (would this offer an easy way to bail?)...I would try and contact the guidebook author or other prominent locals before retrobolting. Jan 3, 2016
Is this different from the Beckey Route listed as "South Face Left" on MP? The Bechtel guide has only one Beckey Route and it's a 5.8, matching the grade on that page. Aug 3, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
there is another Beckey route on Wolfs, but it is the NE face, A2 with bolt ladders so I think this post is for the SF left which does have chimneys, or some other route. Mar 13, 2018

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