Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Fred Becky
Page Views: 2,515 total · 49/month
Shared By: Suzy Stoke on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description

Fred Becky hard-man route! Off-Widthy, leaning-chimney, licheny, splitter cracks, flakes, ADVENTURE route. Arguably the best view of Warbonnet and Watchman's tower in the Cirque.

Not for the faint of heart, Alpine Pirates drinking whiskey and practicing hand-stacking technique probably got the FA on this route.

Did i love it? Did i hate it? It's growing on me with time.... my partner and I did this route car-to-car in around 36 hours for a "weekend trip" from Salt Lake. Oy Vey.

Crux is either P1 or P3, you decide...if you stay on route that is.

Location

Walk along Wolf's Head trail as it branches off the south side of Pingora until you get to a slabby/flowery ramp. Follow the ramp along the base of Wolf's head, some class 4 traversing required to get to the base. Climb starts directly below the "Thumb" looking spire of Wolf's head.

Getting Down: Two 70's get you to the bottom in three long yet beautiful rappels. Beware of rock fall when you pull the rope, lots of loose blocks and places your rope can get stuck in a flake.

Protection

Bring doubles of most sizes (C3,X4,C4). 3 natural anchors and 3 sling-alpine rock stations.

No bolts, I wish there were bolts, I wish there were semi-safe rappels. Three rappels I thought I might die from pulling out the flake or chalk-stone which was barely wedged into the crack slung with decade old webbing. I'm thinking about going back and drilling bolted rap stations, is that kosher in the Winds?

  • Molly and I started singing old folk songs out loud to get our minds off the death defying rappels, good thing we are both relatively light girls..

Sidenote: There was a fixed #10 Stopper and someone left a new .75 cam around P2 & P3.

Photos