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Fred Beckey's Route
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Wolfs Head
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Brass Monkey T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Direct South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Driese-Kehoe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fred Beckey's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Green Dragon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Red Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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South Face, Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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South Face-Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Buffalo T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Wind Walker Traverse T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Fred Beckey |
| Page Views: | 4,570 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Suzy Stoke on Aug 17, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Fred Becky hard-man route! Off-Widthy, leaning-chimney, licheny, splitter cracks, flakes, ADVENTURE route. Arguably the best view of Warbonnet and Watchman's tower in the Cirque.
Not for the faint of heart, Alpine Pirates drinking whiskey and practicing hand-stacking technique probably got the FA on this route.
Did i love it? Did i hate it? It's growing on me with time.... my partner and I did this route car-to-car in around 36 hours for a "weekend trip" from Salt Lake. Oy Vey.
Crux is either P1 or P3, you decide...if you stay on route that is.
Not for the faint of heart, Alpine Pirates drinking whiskey and practicing hand-stacking technique probably got the FA on this route.
Did i love it? Did i hate it? It's growing on me with time.... my partner and I did this route car-to-car in around 36 hours for a "weekend trip" from Salt Lake. Oy Vey.
Crux is either P1 or P3, you decide...if you stay on route that is.
Location
Walk along Wolf's Head trail as it branches off the south side of Pingora until you get to a slabby/flowery ramp. Follow the ramp along the base of Wolf's head, some class 4 traversing required to get to the base. Climb starts directly below the "Thumb" looking spire of Wolf's head.
Getting Down: Two 70's get you to the bottom in three long yet beautiful rappels. Beware of rock fall when you pull the rope, lots of loose blocks and places your rope can get stuck in a flake.
Getting Down: Two 70's get you to the bottom in three long yet beautiful rappels. Beware of rock fall when you pull the rope, lots of loose blocks and places your rope can get stuck in a flake.
Protection
Bring doubles of most sizes (C3,X4,C4). 3 natural anchors and 3 sling-alpine rock stations.
No bolts, I wish there were bolts, I wish there were semi-safe rappels. Three rappels I thought I might die from pulling out the flake or chalk-stone which was barely wedged into the crack slung with decade old webbing. I'm thinking about going back and drilling bolted rap stations, is that kosher in the Winds?
Sidenote: There was a fixed #10 Stopper and someone left a new .75 cam around P2 & P3.
No bolts, I wish there were bolts, I wish there were semi-safe rappels. Three rappels I thought I might die from pulling out the flake or chalk-stone which was barely wedged into the crack slung with decade old webbing. I'm thinking about going back and drilling bolted rap stations, is that kosher in the Winds?
- Molly and I started singing old folk songs out loud to get our minds off the death defying rappels, good thing we are both relatively light girls..
Sidenote: There was a fixed #10 Stopper and someone left a new .75 cam around P2 & P3.
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