Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 776 total · 19/month
Shared By: aggressiveperfector on Aug 16, 2015
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Clip first bolt from the ground then start to the right on the obvious flake. Climb up and right to the some amazing jug cobbles. At the fourth bolt grab a very comfy knee bar on a tufa feature get everything back before makeing a powerful sprint through rad pockets, edges and drop knees to the anchor. This thing builds and Last move might get you. A lil dirty at the bottom but gets better at the third bolt. Steeper than it looks.

Location

This route is up behind the wave wall to the right. It's the only route and it has fixed chains so Warm up at the ghetto or the wave wall. From the wave wall go left around the wall and follow a faint trail for about 4 minutes then you will see the steep route on the right.

Protection

8 bolts
Fixed chains
Lower off 2 chain anchors

Photos

Joey Catama
Thousand Oaks, CA
 
Joey Catama   Thousand Oaks, CA
 
Just tried this climb today. A bit chossy in the beginning but cleans up a lot as you go up. It's a trek to get up to-a lot of scrabbling. I did all the moves and just before the anchors it gets super burly and sick. Great climbing up high. I was wondering if anyone has FA'ed this yet. It's extremely convenient that all those perma draws are up. The climb just needs some traffic put into it. Good job whoever put this route up! I wanna go back and send. Sep 18, 2015
duh
duh  
The route has been FA'ed. Sep 21, 2015
aggressiveperfector  
  5.13a
Thanks I put the route up and FA'ed it. So happy ur psyched on it Joseph. Hope you go back and send. I actually did it with a harder start to left using a bad slopey hueco, then cleaned that flake off (not very well) to the right and decided that was a better start. You can still do the harder start but its about v5 or 6 right off the ground. Sep 22, 2015
Ryan Edwards
Los Angeles, CA
Ryan Edwards   Los Angeles, CA
Does this route end at the first set of anchors or does it continue all the way to the second set? Took a look at this yesterday and there's more than 8 bolts if you go all the way to the top. Nov 5, 2018
aggressiveperfector  
  5.13a
Ryan,
Topo is incorrect it's only established to the first anchor at 13a, the rest are unfinished working bolts. The anchor is the first one by the obvious hueco. After that there is a 30 ft band of horrible choss vaneer, then the rock turns amazing. Nov 5, 2018
Ryan Edwards
Los Angeles, CA
Ryan Edwards   Los Angeles, CA
Sweet thanks for the clarification. So the second pitch hasn't seen an FA yet? Nov 5, 2018
aggressiveperfector  
  5.13a
Ryan, no, there are no bolt placements for about 20 feet after the anchor but if you have the time tools and artillery bust that choss rock off and find a way. I think there's good rock behind it but didnt have the time. The rest of that Crag could be developed, there is more potential there as well. Nov 5, 2018
Ryan Edwards
Los Angeles, CA
Ryan Edwards   Los Angeles, CA
Cool thanks for the info! Nov 5, 2018