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Routes in Spartacus

3 Stripes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aphrodisia S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Astree T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daniboy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gladiator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Harakiri S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kerveros S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Le 13eme Travail d'Hercules S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Les Amazones S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mon Batchounousougounoudoudou S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nabuchodonosor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Neska Politika S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pygmalion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spartacus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tzatziki Vikiki S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 580 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 391 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kelly Corbin on Aug 15, 2015
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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Description

This is an excellent and easy multi-pitch route. Stays in the shade till 2 or so but I would highly recommend, especially in the summer months, to get an early start. The walk off and trek back to your scooter will take close to an hour and a half...and it will be in full sun. The first pitch is a "gimme" but everything after that is great thought provoking movement for the grade. Well-bolted and with great stances for belay this route will surely clean up (more brush than loose rock) with more ascents. The first ascensionists clearly broke up pitches 4 and 5 so swapping leaders could share in the 5c glory. In theory though, and if you're greedy, you could combine pitches 4 and 5 but you'll need 4 to 5 slings to negate the rope drag.
Pitch 1- 30m 4a Head up easy territory until you surmount the belay ledge.
Pitch 2- 35m 5a traverse left along the left face. Fun climbing with plenty of bolts and a great finish onto the proper face, gets you to the next belay anchor.
Pitch 3- 25m 5b head straight up then trend left. Great holds everywhere. A little bushwalking but with traffic it will lighten up.
Pitch 4- 20m 5c continue up and left. This great pitch is short and could be combined with pitch 5 but would require 4 or 5 slings.
Pitch 5- 20m 5c Excellent pockets side pulls and jugs galore. Pull anything and everything to make your way to the next belay.
Pitch 6- 30m 5b wonderful face climbing with just the right amount of holds. Halfway through the pitch is a belay anchor, I skipped this and headed to the top where the final belay anchor sits on top.

Descent- Follow the wonderful well marked Kalymnos-type (blue dots and/or three stripes painted, plus cairns) trail to the left. Don't miss the down climb of the gully. Keep your eyes open for the blue dots and you should see it. This walk off takes a little more than the 1/2 an hour suggested by the supplement. Probably due to a lot of looking around for the next cairn or blue dots; it took us roughly an hour or more.

Protection

Bolts
Kelly Corbin  
 
The start of this climb is past the proper wall of Spartacus. Hike lower below the protruding face that seems to mark the end of Spartacus and look for a gate (don't forget to shut it). The start is just past the gate. Aug 15, 2015