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Routes in Eyetooth

Eyetooth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulling Teeth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Cheyenne Chaffee, Anthony Schwartz
Page Views: 364 total, 13/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Aug 14, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route tackles the overhanging northwest face of Eyetooth. The route is varied throughout and includes thoughtful gear placements, classic needles cracks, overhanging "sport" climbing and even an exciting step across! Originally put up with no bolts, though it detoured right after pulling the crux. Cheyenne and I returned to put in the direct finish, this time with a bolt kit! Like all CSP routes this was put in ground-up, both times. It can be started from both sides of the ridge line. The spires trail side variation should be broken into two pitch, while the standard 4/5 gully can be done in one mondo pitch with strategic gear placements to prevent drag.

Location

If starting from the standard eyetooth start, go up the notch on the northish side between Eyetooth and a sub-formation until you have to start climbing. Follow cracks to a chimney feature that positions you on top of a large feature, commit to the step across and gain the obvious seam to the overhanging face, grab the top, build an anchor with the rope and dangle over the top! If starting from the spires trail side, look for a short, steep, striking hand crack take this to a fist crack to a large ledge below a steep finger crack. Build an anchor here. Take the finger crack to the chimney feature. Standard Eyetooth Rappel.

Protection

00 C3 to #4 C4, Nuts, Brass, Offset X4s are always nice
Two Bolts
Long Runners

Photos

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