Type: Sport, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 15 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 901 total · 11/month
Shared By: ntableman on Aug 12, 2015
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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The climb seems very contrived in that the bolts were often placed in spots to force it to be harder than it should, the rock quality is pretty bad - pieces break, fall and other climbers are letting thing drop often.

Bring a little trad gear for the bolt-free spots.

It rained 2 days before we climbed it and the result in August was about 3/4 of the climb being soaking wet, with water dripping off gear even.

There is nothing much else to mention other than this route seems to be very popular, expect jams.


You can stay at the Stripsenjochhaus hut (not a hut really more like a hostel, full bar and restraunt). Walk back down the hut trailand take on the right side paths toward the large gully/split in the peaks. Walk up hill on well worn path until you are just about into the split. The route starts on the left side.


Each pitch is bolted as of posting this with some notable exceptions: the upper pitches seem to be not-bolted in exactly the spots where the cruxs are. Bring a few nuts or cams to feel safe.
The descent is ungodly - hike about an hour up to the peak, rap/hike 2 times or so, some more hiking, then rap 3-5 times down the backside of the chimney between The peak to the right of FB and one 2 to the right. This hike to the main rap is super sketchy and we were not surprised to see notes on many deaths over the years. If you are not used to sketchy ridge scrambles allow extra time for roping up. The hike out, after the last raps was much longer than listed. One key thing on the hike is to follow the path of red dots/flags to a sort-of-klettersteig and follow it hikers left around the foot of the buttress, this will prevent you from dropping down lower from the hut than needed.


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