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Routes in Holloway Mountain

Changling, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Face T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Poplar Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Face TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ShinBone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Slab crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown Crack 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: N/A
Page Views: 685 total, 24/month
Shared By: Nate Z. on Aug 12, 2015
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the obvious line next to the tree, continue up the line to the top. Plenty of great feet and hands well within reach.

Amazing beginner route, terrific for kids and inexperienced climbers alike.

Location

The route is the absolute farthest to the right at the crag. The next thing over is the clifftop access trail.

Obv landmark: there's a tree at the base of the climb, offset to the right.

Protection

TR protection: there's a stand of trees near the top of the climb. If you want to use the massive bomber one on the next level up, bring a long static rope.

Didn't trad it, but it looked like it had plenty of places for pro. Top may be a little run out (minorly), but it's easy slab. You can top out and walk off the top.

Photos

Ethan Zook
Broadway, VA
 
Ethan Zook   Broadway, VA
 
We're in the area on vacation, and stopped by just to check the place out. We decided to play around on Slab Crack just for some fun, and ended up leading it trad just to get back on the rocks (its been about 2 years since I last led). First, the rock is awesome. Even through the bottom was slightly damp, the rock is grippy and easy to stick to. The route protects well with a selection of #5-11 stoppers, as well as a few flexible stem cams. There is a horizontal crack about 3/4 of the way up which needs either tricams or regular cams to cover. The top slabs are a bit run out, but the climbing is practically fourth class at that point. Aug 19, 2016