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Routes in Paul's Backyard

Annie Get Your Gun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
De Ham Bone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gun Rail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guns and Roses S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Haf & Haf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sling-a-Ding-Ding T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slingshot Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Pete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted Shread T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (aka 'Bittersweet Feet') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Filthy Peter') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Platy Galore') S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ben Chapman & Pam Neal
Page Views: 692 total · 23/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Aug 12, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start in the right leaning crack/seam at the left side of the wall. A couple small cams protect the moderate moves to the 1st bolt. Continue up the steep face past four bolts to the anchor.

Location

Left side of the wall, left of "Gun Rail," at a right leaning flared crack/seam.

Protection

4 bolts, red Alien, and/or #2 TCU or equivalent. Two ring Fixe anchor.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Good route and the high first bolt is nothing to go all pant-shitter on... no gear needed. Apr 16, 2017
Bailey Smith
  5.10a/b PG13
Bailey Smith  
  5.10a/b PG13
The first bolt, while the easiest part of the route, is sort of up there. After that holds are sparse and the rocks are SHARP here. Maybe a first day of a trip kind of route... Sep 7, 2016
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10a
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10a
Yo, Mr. D! Sorry, just saw your comment. Yes, Gun Rail is fun, too! My point is that the movement on Top Gun has more variation with the bit o' crack and a bit o' bulge and a bit o' run. More of a thinker is all. (No hurt feelings, dammit!) May 30, 2016
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
How can you say that El Jeffe?!! Haven't seen your comments on Gun Rail yet. Or did you even climb it? Feelings hurt. LOL Mar 31, 2016
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
Great route, Ben! Yeah, probably the best of the routes on this side. Thanks.

Oh, we were able to stick clip the first bolt, but a cam would be fine, too.

BAd Oct 3, 2015
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10a
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.10a
Arguably the better of the routes on this side, good movement and a bit more thoughtful than the other straight-up lines, but definitely not 10b. (And using a cam seems like overkill for clipping the first bolt with your feet at about the 7' mark, especially in the Hills. If your belayer is spotting you---like they should be anyway---you'll be fine.) Sep 28, 2015

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