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Bloody Lady Di

5.8 PG13, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 1.2 from 12 votes
FA: Doug Redosh, LP
Colorado > Golden > Lookout Mtn Rd > Tiers of Zion > B. Upper Tier > B. First, Second, & T…

Description

This is a line to the left of Joy of My World that, at least for the first half, begs to be climbed. It still needs further cleaning and trimming (it was trimmed with a light touch), which was abbreviated by a careless sweep of a small ledge near the top which...drew blood.

A trad anchor is strongly recommended if you lead this. There's a thread out right around a chockstone.

To start, you can get a small cam low. Then, it's ~15' up to the next placement. Stem upwards. The crux is probably 1/4 the way up where height may allow you to get a finger jam to get your foot into a cool pocket. Midway up the pitch, you'll likely fight a few bushes (unless I get back there to trim) where the difficulty eases but the pro gets lean. Be cautious not to tug on an obviously unattached block in the gully. Move right into a finger crack/flake. Do a nice foot cross through. Beware of glass shards here. Gain the bolted anchor for Joy of My World.

From the anchor, you can move right and gain the exposed 3rd class above the Triangle or rappel.

Location

This is in the dihedral to the left of Joy of My World.

Protection

A rack to a #3 Camalot will work.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Doug stems towards the crux.
[Hide Photo] Doug stems towards the crux.
Vegetation at the bottom.
[Hide Photo] Vegetation at the bottom.
Looking down from near the top to show the bushes.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from near the top to show the bushes.
A good view of the dihedral.  You can see the healthy vegetation.
[Hide Photo] A good view of the dihedral. You can see the healthy vegetation.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8- PG13
[Hide Comment] The crux seems to be getting through the bushes. They certainly have not been trimmed. The route is fun if you brought gear to the area. Not great but fun. Aug 10, 2016