Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 8 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Ross, John Bragg, Michael Peloquin July 1971 FFA Will Carey and Michael Larson August 8th 2015|
|Page Views:||1,713 total · 55/month|
|Shared By:||And Partner on Aug 9, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
General DescriptionThe Ghost climbs the prominent white streak in the middle of the Big Wall section of the cliff. We added bolts to pitches 2 and 3, but left the original bolt ladders for anyone who wants to aid the route. Expect to find thin, balancey, on-your-feet, climbing up a steep slab. This route is well protected, with good gear where you need it. All the free climbing bolts are new, and this route can be rappelled with a 60m rope with the exception of the first pitch. Leave a second rope at the first belay if you plan on rapping. 6 pitches + slabs to the top. Standard rack to #2 camalot, draws, slings.
PitchesP1. Take your pick. Climb right facing corner system, placing gear where you can, to the top of a pedestal with a two bolt anchor. 5.7 180 ft.
P2. Move off the belay into a thin crack (or arch, we did both), and follow it until the crack run out, 2 pins. Move up and left into bolts and tic-tac your way through square edges (5.11) to a stance below the final bolt. A tough sequence leads up and right to a flake system and belay. Subtle, but surprisingly gymnastic and powerful. 5.12+ 90 ft.
P3. Move up and right off the belay into a small corner/flake system. Climb the flake until it ends, moving slightly left to some small edges. Balance your way up until it is possible to move into another small corner/flake system, climb the corner/flake until you can step left to an anchor under the roof. Sustained, and thin. 5.12 50 ft.
P4. Move left off the belay under the big nose in the roof, be careful not to pull on the loose blocks. Jam and layback the nose until you are under the roof and can gain the crack. Downclimb and then hop around the corner onto the face, rejoining Ghostrider, follow to the top. Use of long slings under the roof keeps the rope drag manageable. 5.11a, 60 ft.
P5. Straight up off the belay through weaknesses to a two bolt belay on a big comfortable ledge. 5.9+
P6. Either head up to the ghost roof (we didn't) or head left and follow Sams Swan Song (we did). It's hard to not recommend the roof when we didn't get on it but it looked really dangerous to us. Nice job Jeff.
P7-8. Follow wandering slabs to the top.