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Routes in 3. Big Wall

Benedictus/Masterpiece T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dreamin' T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ghost (Clean Aid), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ R
Ghost, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ghostrider T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Hierophant Tower T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Labyrinth Wall Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magical Mystery Tour .(The Girdle /Traverse of Cannon Cliff) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Drop of Water. V T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3
VMC Direct Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Paul Ross, John Bragg, Michael Peloquin July 1971 FFA Will Carey and Michael Larson August 8th 2015
Page Views: 1,664 total, 58/month
Shared By: And Partner on Aug 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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General Description

The Ghost climbs the prominent white streak in the middle of the Big Wall section of the cliff. We added bolts to pitches 2 and 3, but left the original bolt ladders for anyone who wants to aid the route. Expect to find thin, balancey, on-your-feet, climbing up a steep slab. This route is well protected, with good gear where you need it. All the free climbing bolts are new, and this route can be rappelled with a 60m rope with the exception of the first pitch. Leave a second rope at the first belay if you plan on rapping. 6 pitches + slabs to the top. Standard rack to #2 camalot, draws, slings.

Pitches

P1. Take your pick. Climb right facing corner system, placing gear where you can, to the top of a pedestal with a two bolt anchor. 5.7 180 ft.

P2. Move off the belay into a thin crack (or arch, we did both), and follow it until the crack run out, 2 pins. Move up and left into bolts and tic-tac your way through square edges (5.11) to a stance below the final bolt. A tough sequence leads up and right to a flake system and belay. Subtle, but surprisingly gymnastic and powerful. 5.12+ 90 ft.

P3. Move up and right off the belay into a small corner/flake system. Climb the flake until it ends, moving slightly left to some small edges. Balance your way up until it is possible to move into another small corner/flake system, climb the corner/flake until you can step left to an anchor under the roof. Sustained, and thin. 5.12 50 ft.

P4. Move left off the belay under the big nose in the roof, be careful not to pull on the loose blocks. Jam and layback the nose until you are under the roof and can gain the crack. Downclimb and then hop around the corner onto the face, rejoining Ghostrider, follow to the top. Use of long slings under the roof keeps the rope drag manageable. 5.11a, 60 ft.

P5. Straight up off the belay through weaknesses to a two bolt belay on a big comfortable ledge. 5.9+

P6. Either head up to the ghost roof (we didn't) or head left and follow Sams Swan Song (we did). It's hard to not recommend the roof when we didn't get on it but it looked really dangerous to us. Nice job Jeff.

P7-8. Follow wandering slabs to the top.

Photos

FY
Boston, MA
FY   Boston, MA
Can someone please draw on where the route goes? Keen to try this route this week. I found a decent picture of the area from google images. The red line in the picture marks VMC DD. Thanks very much!!

1.bp.blogspot.com/-FHWJofvx… Oct 13, 2016
chris21  
Hans, this isn't a variation.

The Ghost Roof is another aid climb fa'd by Chris Elms, Andy Tuthill and Stoney Middleton in 78 that goes over instead of around the roof.

Mike and Will freed The Ghost.

Feel free to add The Ghost Roof to the database if you have climbed it.

- Chris Dec 2, 2015
Hans LaCasse
Canaan, New Hampshire
Hans LaCasse   Canaan, New Hampshire
This must be A variation I take it, Avoiding some of the aid pitches like the roof. Dec 2, 2015
thebmags
Outback, Subaru
thebmags   Outback, Subaru
Nice job mike , didn't know it was a FFA Oct 6, 2015
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Nice job guys!!! Aug 31, 2015
And Partner  
 
Michael wrote up the description. I'm just the cut and paste guy. It's a great route. someone should go get on it. Maybe it will feel easier to a really seasoned slab climber. Aug 11, 2015
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
Well done! I was wondering who was working this line. We saw the bolts and chalk from Ghostrider and the climbing looked rad. Aug 11, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Nice write up Will! This is some incredible work you guys have put in. Aug 11, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Awesome !!! I knew it would go free.... Aug 10, 2015