Type: Trad, Alpine, 180 ft
FA: David Whitelaw, Amy Johnson 1990
Page Views: 309 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Aug 9, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

A very long route on high quality Hatcher granite. From the belay bolt traverse right across a tundra ramp to a small corner (or very fat and large flake) with a crack that goes up and then right; it is initially wide but thins as it goes right. There is serious exposure and no pro on the tundra ramp traverse, but the climbing is easy. Make your first placements in the crack, following it up and right to the first bolt. Follow spaced bolts traversing right and up. The bolts transition from diagonal to more vertical as you ascend. Extended draws are recommended for initial pro and all but the last bolts to reduce rope drag. At the top, walk across a large tundra ledge to a new two bolt anchor with rings shared with Black Dog and Bombay Deluxe.

This climb is also described in the Zydeco Wall/Falcon Slab area by another MP user, but it is not on that wall. The Pulp Culture Wall, where the Pulp Culture climb is located, is in a different but adjacent area.

Location

The furthest right climb on the Pulp Culture wall. Starts to the right of and below Bombay Deluxe at a lower piece of exposed slab with a belay bolt. A short, steep thrash through vegetation gets you to this spot.

Protection

Pro to 2" for the initial crack (1 bigger placement in the more vertical section and 1 smaller placement in the more horizontal section should suffice). 9 old (but seemingly solid) and spaced-out buttonhead bolts take you to the top.

Photos

Griswald  
 
Any reason for listing this climb for a second time? Aug 10, 2015
Mat Brunton
  5.8+
Mat Brunton  
  5.8+
Um, it's not on the Zydeco Wall/Falcon Slab... Aug 10, 2015
Griswald  
 
Your right. I will delete it. Aug 10, 2015
Bobby Lieberman
Anchorage, AK
 
Bobby Lieberman   Anchorage, AK
 
Crazy rope drag, use all the alpine draws you can. You only need gear for the first bit I think 2 or 3 pieces, then its all bolted. Jun 17, 2018