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Routes in Vallée Blanche Basin

Arête des Bosses / Goûter Route PG13
Contamine Grisolle AI2 M2
Cosmiques Arête 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4 Mod. Snow
Goulotte Chéré AI4
Kuffner Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI2
Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular Route
Perroux-Profit Goulotte AI4 M5
Tour Ronde North Face AI2-3 Steep Snow
Vent du Dragon AI4 M5+
Type: Alpine, 2300 ft, Grade II
FA: Hudson, Kennedy and guides August 8, 1855
Page Views: 712 total, 25/month
Shared By: Rui Ferreira on Aug 9, 2015
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

This is the most accessible 4000 meter summit to climb in the Mont Blanc range, but should not be taken lightly as the lower slopes have been the scene of many accidents and fatalities due to serac falls and avalanches. From Col du Midi ascend the lower NW slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul (35 to 40 degrees snow). Cross the bergschrund at its easiest point and go up trending diagonally right to the shoulder. Navigate the crevasses and seracs to reach the shoulder/plateau (at 4120m). Do not linger through this section due to the obvious serac danger. Once the shoulder/plateau is reached turn left (south) towards the summit hidden behind a small rock outcrop. Go around the left side of the rock outcrop and up to the summit. Total time to climb is 3 to 4 hours. From the plateau to the summit is 30 minutes. Reverse the route to descend to the glacier below.

This is a good dry run for those looking to do the Trois Monts route to the summit of Mont Blanc, as the Tacul section of that route is typically done in the dark.

Another reason to do this climb is that once you have done it you will not be tempted to summit again when doing other more challenging routes on Mont Blanc du Tacul that are equipped with rappel descents

Location

Located to the West of Col du Midi. Forty five minutes from Aiguille du Midi, about 30 minutes from Refuge des Cosmiques

Protection

Roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue equipment required. Single mountain ax and crampons. One or two ice screws may be required to protect the exposed climbing around the rock step to the summit

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