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Routes in Little Matterhorn

North Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1
South Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Steep Snow
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Type: Trad, Snow, 2800 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 953 total · 25/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Aug 8, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Park at mile marker 28, cross Ptarmigan Creek and ascend up the School Bus Gulley. In the winter this a steep terrain trap for avalanches. This is the best way to gain access to the upper glacier in the summer. Allow 1.5-3 hrs to gain the glacier.

Once on the glacier cross it and ascend up the snow/ice slope to gain the col to the south ridge. In the winter the climbing is composed of steep snow and corniced ridge climbing and in the summer it is a 4th and 5th class scramble.


A glacier Kit is recommended. Crampons and ice axe.



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