Dancing in the Light
Trad, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.8 from 4
FA: Dave Jones, Don Serl 1986
> N America
> British Columbia
From the Squamish Access Society website
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE
This is an inspiring line directly up the right edge of the Central Apron. Prepare for great slab climbing, with the easier sections being somewhat runout.
P1 (10c): From the Snake start go out right and wander up the right hand side of the slab. 40m, 4 bolts
P2 (10a): Move right and plug a .75 camalot into the corner and pull out onto the slab. Put your head down and keep your faith in friction. 35m, 3 bolts + cam.
P3 (10b): More slab climbing straight up...not over-bolted. 30m, 3 bolts
P4 (11a): The slab steepens and the climbing turns more to 'front-pointing' than smearing. Veer slightly left then back right to a scoop with two bolts, one old one new. The bolts are more closely spaced on this pitch. 30m, 7bolts.
P5 (10d): More of the same (this pitch can be linked with P4 if you feel like you need the challenge). 12m, 2 bolts.
P6 (11b): Move up to the small seam and tickle in some small gear if you can find it - I didn't. Pull a mantle on decent holds and clip a 'thank-god' bolt. The crux is moving left and up on tiny crystals. 25m, 4 bolts.
P7 (5.9): The final pitch feels like a cake-walk after the first 6, but it still has some real climbing. 32m, 3 bolts.
I debated whether to call this PG13 or R but went with the former. If anyone else who has climbed it feels otherwise I can change.
Scramble up the trail as per Snake but where that route starts, take the right hand side of the slab.
Descend as per any other Apron route
Take about 8-10 draws and a .75 camalot for the start of P2. In theory, a #5 RP will protect the start of the crux pitch but I couldn't find the slot. It's a tricky place to try fishing in gear as you are a bit run-out and not at a great stance....probably better to just pull the move (maybe 10a/b) and clip the bolt.