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Routes in Reissend Nollen

Caminando S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 1600 ft, 17 pitches
FA: Ruth and Kaspar Ochsner 1989
Page Views: 203 total, 7/month
Shared By: Lisa Montgomery on Aug 7, 2015
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Fee for road usage. Details

Description

Caminando is one of the mega-classic routes at Wenden and a must-do for those climbing at the grade. It is an incredible snaking line with killer exposure and decent protection. Expect a long day out.

The route is more or less located smack dab in the middle of the wall. It is easily identified by the word, “Dingo,” which is written at the base.

P1 (5a/5.7): Starting at the word “Dingo,” climb straight up easy terrain with natural protection. Step left, clip a lone bolt and enjoy the fun runnel climbing to an anchor at a stance.

P2 (6a/10a): Step left from the anchor, clip a thread and runnel climb past 2 bolts to a stance on a loose ledge, clip a third bolt and traverse the ledge left to a 2 bolt anchor.

P3 (6c+/11c): This pitch starts down and left from the P2 anchor. Crux your way past a couple bolts, then traverse left. Clip the fourth bolt, climb straight up toward the fifth and don’t get suckered left. Continue straight up, and then step left to the anchor.

P4 (6b/10c): Step left from the anchor and climb devious slabby moves past a few bolts. Step left to an anchor.

P5 (6c/11b): Once again, step left from the anchor, and then continue straight up a steep arête/bulge. Traverse hard left to the anchor.

P6 (6b+/11a): An amazing pitch that I’m dubbing the “C pitch” because of its shape. Traverse left under a roof past a couple bolts. Pull the roof and begin slab climbing back right until gaining a crimp rail system. Traverse hard right to the anchor.

P7 (7a+/12a): An awesome steep pumper of a pitch!!! Climb straight up the amazing, overhanging headwall. Step right to the anchor.

P8 (6a/10a): A wandery pitch. Climb straight up, traverse right, climb straight up again, then traverse hard left. Got it?

P9 (6c+/11c): A hard, sustained pitch that will make you wish you had double ropes due to its “S” like shape. Hard face moves lead to an overhanging traverse left, to a roof pull to an overhanging traverse right. Keep moving right to the anchor.

P10 (6a/10a): Bust a hard move off the anchor, clip a couple bolts and move right. It is possible to link this pitch and P11 to the Biwakband.

P11 (5c/5.8): A runout easy pitch with two bolts, but the second bolt seems oddly off-route to the left, and can easily be skipped. Step right to a belay stance with a summit registry (not sure why it’s here…).

P12 (5c/5.8): Step right from the anchor and climb straight up past 2 bolts. Angle right, then back left past several threads to an anchor at a decent stance.

P13 (6b+/11a): A steep/exposed pitch that climbs straight up off the anchor past a few bolts and into a flaring, angling corner system. Step right to an awesomely exposed belay stance.

P14 (6b/10c): Step right from the anchor, and climb steep terrain past a rappel station. Angle right into better rock, then back left to an anchor under a roof.

P15 (5c+/9+): Climb the corner to the right of the anchor past a thread and a bolt. Exit left, and carefully climb up the broken stone past a bolt to an anchor.

P16 (5c+/9+): A short pitch that angles right. Belay at a stance.

P17 (6b+/11a): An awkward finish that is the icing on the cake. Climb a splitter corner with good natural pro, step left on easier ground. Pull awkward cruxy moves at a bolt, then pull a roof past another bolt. Be mindful of loose rock at the top.

Descent: Rap the route via many rappels (it took us 10). Care is needed due to the steepness and traversing nature of the route. The last rappel is down Tsunami and is accessed via a fixed line that leads you climber’s left. It is easily spotted from the P2 anchor of Caminando.

From the base of Reissend Nollen, it is possible to continue rapping down Vorbau in lieu of the 4th-5th class scrambling descent. For more info look at the Reissend Nollen main page.

Gear: 12 slings/draws, nuts, single set of cams from .3-75, 2x 60m ropes. (doubles would be nice)

Photos

Dan Flynn   MA  
Great description, thanks for adding this mega-classic! Jan 6, 2016