Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Cormier & Jeff Campbell July 2, 1991
Page Views: 374 total · 9/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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This climb is located at the far right end of the tree ledge, just before the slabs that form the "East Face" ice climbs.
Walk along the base of the upper tier wall, past Salespitch, and you'll come to two grassy ledges, about 2-3ft above each other, above which is a widely-flaring corner. [Photo] Nice tree for belay just below the grassy ledges.

P1 - Hop up over the grassy ledges onto the rock. About 25 ft up pass by an ancient piton (soft iron angle piton). Continue up to a grassy ledge with a nice double bolt anchor. (actually 3 bolts including an older one. ) 110 ft 5.4 - 5.5

P2 - Step left off the grassy ledge and proceed upwards to Bolt #1 (3/8" with "Cormier" Alum. hanger). Then continue up, usually left-ish, past a new 3/8" S.S. bolt (crux) and on to a 3rd bolt (3/8" Alum Hanger). Move left along a rounded dike to a double bolt belay. 110-120 ft 5.7 PG-13 The F.A. team rated this pitch 5.7 and that's how I posted it on this website, but the first time you lead it, it will probably feel more difficult since it is so continuous.

P3- (May be combined with P2, although there's quite a bit of rope drag) Continue up in the rounded dike (just a foot or two right of the mossy streak) headed for an obvious bolt (Alum. hanger), and continue up to a 2nd bolt that is hidden from below; here move left (exit slab brushed in Aug 2015) and into the trees. 90 ft 5.4 - 5.5 (for the exit move)

To reach summit & the hiking trail: Go 15-20 ft up through the trees to a low-angle slab. Up this slab (Some may want a belay on this), moving a bit left and then up. After about 100-120 ft the slab really lays back and there are some grassy ledges to unrope. [Photo]
Now, don't go to the very top of this slab, but from the grassy ledges move up and right across the slab, push through 10 feet of pine trees to another slab, cross that slab on a rising-right diagonal, then into the trees. After 15-20 ft the woods open up, move straight up another 20-25 ft, then 90-degree right turn and 20-25 feet further reach the climber's path that leads up to the summit (left) or down to the top of Upper Hitchcock Gully (right). The summit is about 2-3 minutes walk, the whole hike from the grassy ledges should take no more than 5 min.


3 draws, with maybe a longer sling for bolt #2