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Routes in The Wave Twister

Inner Space Dental Commander S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wave Twister S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pon and Pain, 2003
Page Views: 122 total, 4/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Aug 7, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch climbs difficult slab past five bolts. With our fingertips, we brushed lichen off of crucial edges. The slab supports an undisturbed climax, old-growth lichen forest. If someone were to visit with a brush, I would plead for selective thinning, only where necessary, rather than clear cutting.

The second pitch leads past a #1 Camalot placement and a #2, before a short traverse left, past a bent, partly driven "Army" angle piton. Three bolts lead up a short headwall. Behind lies the rim and a bolted anchor (5.6 or 5.9-, depending on how directly you climb past the bolts; 50 feet).

Location

This is the righthand of the two bolted routes next to the water. A third bolted route may lie uphill to the right.

Protection

I recommend stick-clipping the first bolt. A #2 and maybe a #3 Camalot must be placed in a horizontal crack between the second and third bolts. After the fifth bolt is a runout on less-difficult slab, reaching the chains at about 70 feet. Pitch two is protected by a #1 and a #2, plus a fixed pin and three bolts.

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