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Routes in Vanity Boulder

Vanity V4- 6B
Well-Coiffed (my name, perhaps not the actual name...) V6-7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: I just don't know. I'm the only person I've ever heard of doing it.
Page Views: 134 total, 5/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Aug 6, 2015
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start on the undercut side of the Vanity Boulder, at the far left, with left hand on a good edge, and right hand on a so-so crimp. Hard moves up and right lead to a superb ending. Very tricky to figure out. Finishes on the same top holds as Vanity.

Location

The Vanity Boulder is directly across the stream from the bathroom.

Protection

Pad. One is fine.

Photos

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
For the last ten years (how long have I been climbing at Skofield...?) I kinda-sorta-thought there might be a nice burly sit start on the far left of the Vanity Boulder. I heard some unsubstantiated reports that there was, in fact, a V6ish problem. I can't recall who spread that rumor.

During a hot week in August, 2015, I satisfied my curiosity and figured out an excellent sequence of moves, confirming that yes, with a little boredom and local spirit, you can teach old dogs new tricks. I'm quite enamored with this problem. Do it. It's definitely been added to my classics list. I threw out a name for the problem, mainly because I hate calling problems "unknown", and because I can't find any history on the boulder. Bob? Steve? Kelly? Anyone?

I'm not entirely certain of the grade. The way I did it was fairly tenuous. Yeah, it was friggin' hot, but I'm fairly certain of its difficulty. I'd like to go back when it isn't baking in the sun and give it another go. Aug 6, 2015