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Routes in Upper Falls

Bird Perch TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdshit Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birdshit Roof T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Curving Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ed's Crack TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Face Left of The Prow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Large Intestine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ledge, Left Start, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ledge, Right Start, The T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Northerners S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinwheel Direct, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pinwheel, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prow, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pseudo 5.10 TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sigmoid Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Small Intestine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tunnel route TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed 5.11+ TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.12 TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 144 total, 5/month
Shared By: Alex S on Aug 6, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the thin crack in the open book right of the perched block. The crack thins to a seam in the middle portion, but the rock get porous and shoes stick well.

Protection

Small to tiny gear, placing can be tricky but solid when you find the right spot.

Photos

Matt Kelly
Orange County
Matt Kelly   Orange County
TR this yesterday 11/12/17. Solid moves all around with sporadic and helpful hand jams. Thin crack with a distinct sequence about 2/3s up is the crux. Some nice finger locks but feet get bare once in the thin crack; it'll offer more once you get established. Would I lead it Trad? perhaps next time. Nov 13, 2017