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Routes in South Face
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Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route) S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cobbles 101 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pryoclastic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 430 ft (130 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Yoder Brenden Sullivan |
| Page Views: | 6,039 total · 61/month |
| Shared By: | Brenden Sullivan on Aug 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: Access to Pinto Rock is OPEN!!! Mmmm cobbles...
Details
Pinto Rock is located in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest.
For up to date access alerts and road conditions visit: fs.usda.gov/alerts/giffordp…
For up to date access alerts and road conditions visit: fs.usda.gov/alerts/giffordp…
Description
Welcome to Cobbles 101! This route begins on the prow just left of the gully for "Bowling Alley". The crux (if there is one) is just a quick move off the ground. From there, the climbing stays quite moderate yet enjoyable with some decent exposure in areas. Excellent route for developing your "cobbletrust" skills.
P1: 5.7 - Clip the first bolt overhead, mantle to small ledge and continue up the edge of a cobblestone staircase. 6 clips to chain anchor.
P2: 5.6 - Shimmy across the "camel humps" (may want to sling the second hump), then hand traverse across very thin saddle to first bolt. Clip 5 bolts to chains.
(Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked with long slings down low on the first 3 clips, 12 clips altogether 55 meters.)
P3: 5.6 - Continue up through a shallow groove, up a few low slabs and then up to the large bench above. 6 clips to chains.
P4: 5.8 - Down climb slightly left and step across gap to clip first bolt then continue up the "spine". 8 clips to a hanging belay.
P5: 5.6 - Finish on the Bowling Alley. Climb through the band of basalt to a chimney, sling a cobble after second clip, then leftward up a shoot to the summit. 5 clips.
Descent: From the summit, rappel off the North end of the East face from an anchor set up near a tree. Make two rappels with a 60m rope or make one double-rope rappel to the ground.
NOTE: Chains are for belay and emergency exit only. Rappelling these routes can be dangerous! Be highly aware of swing potential and possibly taking your hands off the rope and climbing a bit to anchors, auto-block recommended. Most rappels are total rope-stretchers so TIE KNOTS or meet your doom!
P1: 5.7 - Clip the first bolt overhead, mantle to small ledge and continue up the edge of a cobblestone staircase. 6 clips to chain anchor.
P2: 5.6 - Shimmy across the "camel humps" (may want to sling the second hump), then hand traverse across very thin saddle to first bolt. Clip 5 bolts to chains.
(Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked with long slings down low on the first 3 clips, 12 clips altogether 55 meters.)
P3: 5.6 - Continue up through a shallow groove, up a few low slabs and then up to the large bench above. 6 clips to chains.
P4: 5.8 - Down climb slightly left and step across gap to clip first bolt then continue up the "spine". 8 clips to a hanging belay.
P5: 5.6 - Finish on the Bowling Alley. Climb through the band of basalt to a chimney, sling a cobble after second clip, then leftward up a shoot to the summit. 5 clips.
Descent: From the summit, rappel off the North end of the East face from an anchor set up near a tree. Make two rappels with a 60m rope or make one double-rope rappel to the ground.
NOTE: Chains are for belay and emergency exit only. Rappelling these routes can be dangerous! Be highly aware of swing potential and possibly taking your hands off the rope and climbing a bit to anchors, auto-block recommended. Most rappels are total rope-stretchers so TIE KNOTS or meet your doom!
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